Beaujolais – More than Nouveau

By: Allen Balik

Revisiting the wines of Beaujolais is a timely journey as we transition from the bold cool weather cuisine of winter to the lighter fare more typical of spring and summer. Thankfully, the image of Beaujolais has been experiencing a rebound and many outstanding wines are readily available to match perfectly with al fresco dinners and the more casual atmosphere of the season.

But what are we looking for, and what should we expect to find, when searching the wine shop’s shelves for just the right Beaujolais to complement the evening meal or summer picnic?

Unfortunately, we cannot have a serious conversation about the superb wines of Beaujolais without acknowledging the 800-pound (actually the multi-million case production) gorilla in the room. Known as Beaujolais Nouveau, this early release of somewhat insipid wines financially served the industry well for decades providing immediate cash-flow. But unfortunately, in the quest for additional revenue, the Nouveau wines largely destroyed the quality image of traditional Beaujolais.

History tells us that Beaujolais vintners always produced a Vin de L'année that was released shortly after harvest and intended primarily for local consumption. The wine was officially christened Beaujolais Nouveau in 1951 with a formal release date of November 15.

This release became a national event during the 1970s and morphed into an international sensation with Concord jets carrying the precious cargo to markets far and wide (including the U.S.) for gala release celebrations at the stroke of midnight. The release celebrations were so successful that at one time Nouveau accounted for 50 percent of total Beaujolais production.

Regardless of the actual harvest date, the official release date was moved in 1985 to the third Thursday in November as a U.S. marketing tool to take advantage of the Thanksgiving holiday, and still remains known as "Beaujolais Nouveau Day."

Regrettably, consumers around the world began to relate the very simple nature of Beaujolais Nouveau as the character of Beaujolais. This could not be further from the truth, but sales of Cru Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages and Beaujolais declined precipitously.

There are now strong indications that the pendulum has swung back with several recent stellar vintages and a broad appeal to today’s more eclectic cuisine. Market studies have shown that the traditional wines of Beaujolais (especially from the Cru appellations) are regaining their well-deserved notoriety and acclaim.

The only officially recognized grape in Beaujolais is Gamay Noir (aka Gamay) whose reputation was first rehabilitated in the 1980s by the “Beaujolais Gang of Four” (Guy Breton, Jean Foillard, Marcel Lapierre and Jean-Paul Thévenat) as they pushed for organic farming and more natural “anti-Nouveau” winemaking regimens in the cellar.

Beaujolais is one of France's smallest appellations – about the length of Napa Valley and roughly twice the width. It is located just south of Burgundy (some have always considered it part of Burgundy) and just north of Lyon and the Northern Rhone. The region is divided into two general appellations separated by the Nizerand River.

Beaujolais-Villages lies to the north surrounding the hilly ten Cru appellations of Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Juliéanas, Morgon, Moulin-á-Vent, Réginé, and St. Armour. The soils on this side of the river are primarily granite and schist leading to more elegant and focused wines. To the south of the Nizerand is Beaujolais with its sandstone and clay soils producing more fruit forward and softer wines.

The ten Cru vineyards are at the top of the Beaujolais ladder both in quality and price (from the mid $20s to high $40s) yet account for only a small fraction of overall production. Fruit from these appellations is not permitted in the production of Nouveau, and the Crus have received the lion's share of attention in Beaujolais' resurgence.

Next in prestige is Beaujolais-Villages surrounding the Crus and ranging in price from the high teens to mid-twenties. Fruit from the Villages vineyards can also be used in Nouveau production; they often bear the Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau designation.

The grapes of the Beaujolais appellation are often used in the Nouveau production, but more classic examples are also available ranging in price from the low-teens to low-twenties. These wines, like those from Beaujolais-Villages, are charming and offer delightful pairings with lighter fare.

When selecting a Beaujolais it is important to read and understand the label. Do you want a Cru, Villages or simple Beaujolais? The descriptors are clearly shown on the label for the categories of Villages and Cru (along with the specific Cru appellation designation). But if it only states “Beaujolais,” this will be from the lesser (though still fine) Beaujolais appellation across the river Nizerand.

The unpretentious wines from across Beaujolais are lighter in style and best served lightly chilled. They exhibit refreshingly higher acidity with dominant red fruit flavors, modest tannins and lower alcohol levels all leading to a very pleasurable vinous experience.

While many may think of Beaujolais as a summer wine, they are also a treat throughout the year when paired with a wide range of cuisine - especially spicy dishes, cold roast chicken and other dishes served at room or cooler temperatures so popular today.

The rebirth of classic Beaujolais is definitely a trend in the market supported by the aggressive vineyard investment of Burgundian and other prestigious producers, along with the newly energized passion and commitment from the stalwarts of the area. Thankfully, the glitzy Nouveau celebrations and overwhelming focus on inferior wines are largely events of the past and somewhat unknown to the younger millennial generation that is the future of Beaujolais.