Knowing when to age wines

 My last column, “Kicking off ’23 with a fond look back,” recounted some of the “oldies” I pulled from our cellar earlier this year along with several other aged gems shared with us by others. In response to the column, many readers commented on the delights of an aged wine from their own perspectives, experiences and interests, while others posed several important questions on the need to age wines and whether it’s always the right thing to do.

Most wines made today, and especially for the domestic market, are intended for early drinking with an emphasis on fresh fruit, softer tannins and often a touch of sweetness. This model seems to satisfy the buying habits and needs of a majority of consumers who are not inclined to hold wine for aging.

It is often said in the trade that about 90 percent of all wines purchased in the U.S. are consumed within 24 hours and most of the remaining wines are enjoyed over the next several weeks. Only a few are held a year or more and far fewer push the limits of their aging potential. So, the question of aging wines is really directed to a very small fraction of all wines produced and meant to satisfy an equally small fraction of the consuming public.

Properly aging select wines for years or decades can be truly rewarding, although some may have gone past their prime leaving the collector wishing the cork had been pulled a few years earlier. So, how can we determine which young wines will benefit from extended time in the bottle and when to pop the cork?

The aging process is a combination of several extremely complex and interrelated chemical and physical reactions resulting in subtle changes of color, aromatics, flavor and texture. Wine is a living thing and just like we humans, well-constructed wines meant for aging begin in their infancy, progress through some awkward childhood and teenage years on their way to adulthood and the senior years.

As a wine ages, the youthful inviting notes of berries, citrus and other bright images will morph into secondary and tertiary aromatics and flavors. The richness of leather, delicacy of dried flowers, mature fruits, hints of grilled mushrooms and shaved truffles, memories of a moist forest floor and the welcoming scent of an open cigar box continue to emerge while engaging the nose and palate with shades of depth and discovery.

So, when tasting a wine in its youth, how can we predict if it will develop into something special with age? There are two critical elements – balance and structure – combined with other factors such as variety, vintage and terroir.

When balance and structure are present in youth they can form the foundation for aging, but if not, they will never develop with age. Unfortunately, the “100-point” critics do not offer much guidance here as they rarely incorporate these essential factors in their reviews or critical opinions.

Balance is achieved only when the key ingredients – fruit, acidity, tannin and alcohol – complement rather than overshadow each other. There is no formula for calculating or creating balance and the component levels will naturally fluctuate because of multiple influences of the vintage, growing area and variety to name a few.

Structure is a bit harder to define. As an analogy, I usually look to our own bodies in drawing some parallels. The definition should come into better focus when we think of acidity as the backbone and skeleton supporting the weight and dimension of everything else. Tannin represents the musculature holding the skeleton together while adding shape to the frame.

Alcohol contributes to the body and mouthfeel of wine by adding a softening touch, but in excess it can result in heat on the finish and an awkward sense of sweetness to the palate. Fruit is the flesh adding its own character to complete the picture.

Most overly alcoholic table wines are a result of over-ripe fruit at harvest that also deliver lower acidity and soft "mushy" tannins to the finished wine. These characteristics serve to diminish both balance and structure and consequently, the wine’s ability to gain complexity with age.

All wines are not meant to withstand the rigors of aging and are far more enjoyable in their early years. But those displaying the proper qualities of balance and structure for the long haul can be recognized in their youth and set aside to reward us as they age.

We must also consider the wine’s overall impression from nose to finish to determine ultimate ageability. Do the intricate components work together in a seamless pattern without overstepping one another? That’s a key question when recognizing a young wine’s ability to age.

Now that we’ve determined a specific wine has the character to age, what’s needed on our part to protect it during the aging process?

A wine’s aging cycle is strongly influenced by temperature as this process (like many other chemical and physiological reactions) speeds up at warmer levels and slows down as temperatures fall too low. Consistent temperatures between 55 and 60 degrees are ideal and similar to those found in underground caves. Wide fluctuations such as air conditioning to heat and seasonal variations are always problematic and not compatible with the aging process.

Proper levels of humidity (50 to 60 percent) are also important in the storage strategy. Light (whether sunlight, incandescent or fluorescent) is a negative culprit for long term aging. If a dark wine cellar is not an option, there are many temperature/humidity-controlled cabinets available in a wide range of size, price and design.

Now that we’ve properly selected and stored that special wine, what precautions should we exercise to ensure our enjoyment when serving that special bottle?

While natural cork presents the time-honored and optimum closure, it’s not perfect and may require some special care in removal. The Ah-So style (double pronged) wine opener should lift the cork without breakage as opposed to the more familiar corkscrew or waiter’s cork pull that can result in the older cork breaking on removal. A few years ago, I discovered The Durand, a new tool that combines the action and strengths of both the corkscrew and Ah-So style opener for near perfect results.

When talking about serving older wines, the subject of a decanter usually enters the conversation. Decanters really serve two distinct purposes and should be used with care when serving an older wine. They facilitate the aeration of wine by expanding its surface area to unleash hidden aromas and flavors. You can actually “dump” a young wine into the decanter and really let it breath on decanting and while resting in the vessel.

Yet, for an older wine this can be harmful as wines of age are fragile and must be handled carefully. The real purpose of decanting an older wine is to separate it from any sediment (a natural product of aging) and refresh it with a touch of air after so much time resting in the bottle.

Set the decanter on the table while slowly and carefully pouring the wine gently down its inside surface. Hold a light or candle under the bottle’s neck and stop the process when sediment appears. In most cases, it is also best to decant the wine shortly before service to avoid excess exposure to air that may damage the wine.

All wines mature differently and their individual personalities will determine which ones to age and which ones to enjoy in their youth. But, if the right factors are present, and aging is an option, the rewards can be memorable.