Making friends with the wine list

Allen R. Balik

We’ve all experienced it – perhaps some more than others. You’ve been planning a special night out with family and friends and eagerly await the transcendental experience of dining in a majestic restaurant. On entering this palace of gastronomy, you are struck by its beauty and the regal nature of the entire scene. Now comfortably seated with your guests and a smile on your face, the menus are delivered by handsomely attired servers.

Then the moment of truth arrives. Here comes the wine list! Are you excited and intrigued with the search ahead or intimidated by its sheer size and complexity? Are you thinking, "Who can read all this while still being able to enjoy the evening and do I need to make a decision on my own?"

When we think of a wine list as a tome, Paris’ oldest restaurant – the Michelin starred La Tour d’Argent – located across the Seine River from Notre Dame, may hold the record. Originally founded in 1582 as an inn, it is celebrating its 442nd anniversary. The list now boasts 15,000 entries covering over 400 pages, weighing in at 17 pounds and is delivered to the table on a cart. Thankfully, this is by far the exception and definitely not the rule in today’s dining scene.

With modern computers, iPads and ever changing vinous choices, the sight of the leather bound and beautifully calligraphed tome of any size is more or less a thing of the past. But for many, the wine list can still be intimidating regardless whether it was printed or downloaded that day (better ensuring the availability of your selection) or penned by hand as many were some time ago.

A wine list’s construction can directly relate to your comfort level in navigating through its content. Most lists are first arranged by wine type – sparkling, rosé, white, red and dessert – and that's easy enough to understand. Yet how the wines are listed under these general categories may be challenging. Is it by variety (e.g. Cabernet, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay), country (e.g. U.S., France, Spain), region (e.g. Napa, Bordeaux, Rioja), assumed taste perceptions (e.g. light, crisp, fruity, rich, full bodied) or even price?

Today's lists, regardless of the method used, are generally organized in a more "user friendly" manner geared to inform rather than intimidate. But its sheer complexity may still be discouraging and even if you understand the layout, what about all these names you can’t pronounce?

As an additional benefit, it's always good to remember that the sommelier is your friend and there to help – not intimidate. Master Sommelier (and founder of the award-winning Lingua Franca Wines in Oregon’s Eola-Amity Hills) Larry Stone once told me as a simple response to my question on the intimidation factor, “If I’m intimidating my customer, I’m not doing my job.”

A sommelier’s advice can enhance your entire dining experience so be sure to take advantage of his expertise. Asking the server about a dish's preparation or the chef's suggestion is common place at the table. Why not seek the same advice from the somm when it comes to your choice of wine?

To deconstruct and simplify any wine list, start by narrowing your selection process as you would with the menu or other shopping experience. If you know you want fish, you don’t have to waste time perusing the beef dishes. If you walk into a department store to buy a sweater, you don’t have to bother looking at the fragrance, shoe and shirt displays.

By the same token if you want a white wine, don’t worry about the daunting list of reds and others. If Cabernet is your choice, don’t worry about the Pinots and Zins. And if you can’t pronounce it, just point and ask the sommelier for help. Getting any easier?

Many years ago, I was on a business trip in Tokyo. We were having dinner at a heralded new restaurant featuring “Franco/Japanese” cuisine as it was all the rage in Japan at that time. I was handed the wine list by our host and asked to select the wine. The list was dominated (as expected) by upper-end Bordeaux and Burgundy. My eyes widened and began to drift to the right side (price column) of the page. It was then our host politely extended his hand to cover the prices and said with a smile, “Just concentrate on the left side.”

I frequently recall this exchange as price is often a determining factor in wine selection. So, here’s another way to better focus your exploration of the list. If your limit is $60, don’t worry about all those wines that are more expensive. Nowhere is it said that a great wine list must be intimidating or that a great wine must be expensive.

Now that you’re better able to focus your choices and feel more comfortable with a wine list, remember that experimentation is also fun so try something new from time to time. As you now know, the sommelier is there to assist you. Tell him you're looking for something a bit different, the types of wines you enjoy and what dish has captured your fancy so he can guide you on the exploration with any number of good choices.

The best message here: Don't be intimidated by the list. Just enjoy the experience and don’t hesitate to seek some help, if needed, with your choice. The somm is there to help not intimidate. And you are there to enjoy the evening without becoming frazzled or uncomfortable about having to make the “right” decision.