There's a lot to say about Cabernet Franc

Allen R. Balik

In most conversations when the name Cabernet is mentioned, we automatically think of Cabernet Sauvignon, while its father – Cabernet Franc – seldom comes to mind. In addition to Cabernet Franc (along with Sauvignon Blanc) being the genealogical parent of Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc (as it is often referred) also shares the parentage of other “Bordeaux” varieties: Merlot and Carménère (now better known as the “darling” grape of Chile).

Cabernet Franc is far more specific in the selection of its growing areas (soils, elevation, exposure, drainage, etc.) and crop-load (about one-half the yield per acre) than is Cabernet Sauvignon, leading to limited production worldwide and especially here in California’s North Coast.

When traditionally and correctly grown, harvested and handled in the winery, it exhibits an intriguing color, floral spicy nose with herbal hints, an elegantly balanced palate and an intriguing finish that sets it apart from the more masculine and muscular elements often attributed to Cabernet Sauvignon.

Cabernet Franc presents the consumer and winemaker with many faces adding to its multi-faceted personality and appeal. In France’s Loire Valley, it is the principle red grape with stand-alone strongholds in the Chinon and Bourgueil regions along with other select areas.

In Bordeaux, it is generally seen as one of the five traditional blending grapes on the Left Bank and a more equal partner with Merlot on the Right Bank’s St. Emilion. Cabernet Franc is also prominent in the far smaller Right Bank area of Pomerol where it plays a minority role with a dominant Merlot in prestigious blends.

Noted wine educator, author and journalist Karen MacNeil wrote an in-depth article in Decanter Magazine’s October issue that charted Cabernet Franc’s “history and ascendancy in the Golden State.” In preparation for the article, MacNeil conducted a comprehensive tasting of 60 examples from California and recommended (with detailed notes) her 20 top selections. The top six (along with an additional 11 of the remaining 14) hailed from various regions and producers in Napa Valley.

There are approximately 1,200 acres of Cabernet Franc planted in Napa Valley compared to about 22,000 of Cabernet Sauvignon and 45,000 total. With its growing appeal in the market as a varietal bottling and strong winemaker demand as a compatible blending grape with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, it now commands a significantly higher price per ton than any other variety.

According to MacNeil, “How and when Cabernet Franc arrived in California is not completely clear. The grape variety is thought to be Basque in origin, and ancient. It appears to have moved from Northern Spain to Bordeaux and then the Loire.”

Cuttings of Franc may have arrived in California as early as the 1860s but were quite limited and inconsistent until the early 2000s when commercial quantities of virus-free cuttings from France appeared and became part of the massive replanting of Napa Valley vineyards after its latest wave of phylloxera.

Tracey and John Skupny began their wine careers in the mid-1970s where they worked in mid-west restaurants sourcing wines and creating beverage programs. During this time, they developed an appreciation for the Loire with its enjoyable wines and reasonable pricing that fit nicely with the lists they were creating. In 1980 they moved to San Francisco where John continued his vinous career with Vintage Wine Merchants before settling in Napa Valley in 1984 where he assumed the role of National Sales Director at Caymus.

Over the next several years John continued his work in executive positions with Clos du Val and Niebaum-Coppola. He and Tracey launched Lang & Reed in 1996 fueled by their “love” of Chinon’s Cabernet Franc from the Loire. Their inaugural release in 1997 was modeled after the prototype they developed in 1993.

Sharing a mutual desire to create something they liked while differing from John’s past work with a string of stalwart Cabernet Sauvignon producers, John and Tracy decided to focus their brand on Cabernet Franc as an homage to their early restaurant years. With the 2013 vintage, Lang & Reed expanded its portfolio by releasing Chenin Blanc, Franc’s “Loire sister.” Today, John is considered one of the foremost authorities in California on Cabernet Franc.

Given the elegant aromatic, flavor and textural profile of Cabernet Franc, John relied in the early years on the vineyard and winemaking expertise of his Pinot Noir producing friends rather than those more closely aligned with Cabernet Sauvignon. He sees “Cabernet Franc as an ancient variety that is ‘transparent’ for good or bad depending mostly on growing conditions.”

The stylistic emphasis expressed by the Lang & Reed vision is, “A wine that is charming without being simple displaying elegance and complexity without excessive extract and power.” John continues, “Fine wine enjoyment is more like a quartet – whether Jazz or Classical – expressing harmony. The four parts of my quartet that create magical moments are wine, company, venue and cuisine to accompany the occasion.”

Another noted winemaking authority on the growing and production of Cabernet Franc is Crocker & Starr’s Co-Founder, Partner and Founding Winemaker Pam Starr. Pam’s winemaking and viticultural career spans four decades highlighted by time spent at Sonoma-Cutrer, Carmenet and Spottswoode. A chance discovery of old head-trained Cabernet Franc vines in the middle of St. Helena’s Crocker Vineyard led to a partnership with Charlie Crocker and the birth of Crocker & Starr in 1997.

Pam’s first experience with Franc dates to the mid-1980s where at Carmenet it was treated as a “blending stepchild.” But Pam had different thoughts about the grape. While at Spottswoode, she created a successful one-barrel blend of 80 percent Franc and 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon for the Napa Valley Wine Auction that was opposite to the classic Spottswoode blending model of the two varieties.

Pam sees Cabernet Franc, “Like a Shakespearian play where one actor plays all roles.” As a blending partner with Cabernet Sauvignon, “It adds the impression of a fine lace of flowers and spice. While as a varietal bottling it displays a ‘vertical stack’ of flavors and textures layered atop one another.”

Pam’s “stack” consists of, “Intrinsic color (red with hints of blue and black), aroma (floral with berries and cardamom), palate (sticky tannin leading to long ‘non-fruitedness’ that is Karen MacNeil’s sixth element of greatness), elegant textural appeal and a long layered finish the captures the essence of the nose and palate.”

Pam has always respected the virtues of Cabernet Franc. Since Crocker & Starr’s founding, it has become a hallmark variety for her and the brand and she sees a bright future for the wines. “When displaying their true varietal character, Cab Francs satisfy both Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir drinkers by bridging both sides of the flavor scale with soul and concentration displaying elegance from beginning to middle and end.”

Marilyn and Ren Harris own Paradigm Winery in the heart of Oakville and are also known as winegrowers par excellence serving the critical needs of vintners and winemakers throughout the Valley. Both have extraordinarily deep roots in Napa Valley. Marilyn's grandparents immigrated from Italy to Napa Valley in 1890, while Ren's family came to California in 1769.

Ren, who just celebrated his 58th harvest, has a deep interest in Cabernet Franc both from the vintner’s and grower’s perspectives. Currently, Paradigm has two well established blocks dedicated to the variety with the expansion of a third now coming on-board.

Ren has a keen eye toward today’s warming climatic effects and has placed emphasis on the proper rootstocks, such as the old Napa Valley favorite St. George, to help in this endeavor. He also sees the need to carefully monitor the crop size with diligent green harvesting (dropping fruit during veraison), timely removal of second-crop clusters and proper pruning regimens.

Well drained soils along with specific clonal selections and rootstocks are important in maximizing Franc’s varietal character whether as part of a blend (as with Paradigm’s Cabernet Sauvignon) or as their varietal bottling. For Ren, “Even ripening is the key and all measures used in the vineyard are geared to accomplishing that goal.”

Bill Nancarrow began his winemaking career 30 years ago in the Hawkes Bay region of his native New Zealand where Pask Winery was considered one of the country’s better Merlot and Cabernet Franc producers. In 2001 Bill migrated to Napa Valley and became the assistant winemaker for Duckhorn, a position that evolved to Executive Winemaker of all Duckhorn Napa Valley properties in 2007. He held that position until 2013 when he joined the newly re-imagined Goosecross Cellars in Yountville as winemaker.

Goosecross uses only estate grown Cabernet Franc for its varietally bottled version as well as a blending grape for its flagship Aeros (a Bordeaux-style blend). The estate has three blocks of Cabernet Franc composing a range of clonal selections and rootstocks for added complexity, as each brings its individual character to the finished wines.

As a blending grape for Aeros, Bill admires, “The lift it offers with a more refined and elegant finish along with the intriguing herbal hint to the aromatics.” In the varietal bottling Bill looks to, “Its beautiful and alluring aromatics of blue fruit, a touch of spice and of course the trademark herbal note coupled with a complementary flavor and textural profile.”

Taming the herbal nature of Cabernet Franc in the vineyard is central to capturing its distinctive appeal. In Bill’s experience, “Those that learn to walk-the-walk to enhance Franc’s perfumed nose while avoiding the perception of excess herbaceous characteristics will succeed.”

Primarily due to the qualitative limits of its highly selective growing areas and low crop production, Cabernet Franc may never catch on as a “mainstream” wine we see with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Pinot Noir. But its inimitable personality certainly peaks consumer interest and will always enjoy a unique market niche.