Wines for spring and year-round

We are just coming out of one of Napa’s wettest and coldest winters ever. Since the end of December, it seemed every week brought another “atmospheric river” to the west coast that then traversed its way across the country to the mid-west, south and east with violent storms everywhere.

The sun is finally out in Napa and spring has arrived. So, does this mean we should put away those lovely Cabernets, Zinfandels and Syrahs we’ve been enjoying with winter’s heartier cuisine? Is it really necessary to pack-up the Cabs and replace them with the lively pink rosés that merchants would have us believe are only suited to warmer weather?

Unfortunately, it’s common to categorize the wines we intend to open by the season of the year or elect to save for specific occasions. But, all categories of wine – rosé, sparkling, white, red, fortified, sweet, etc. – are truly meant for all seasons, and depending on their style, pair with a variety of cuisine. Rather than some self-imposed arbitrary limits, our choices should be based on the culinary pairings we are planning, the nature of our entertaining and most importantly, what we feel like drinking.

Champagne (and other sparklers) are often opened for special occasions like the New Year holiday and weddings. Rosé, in the minds of retailers and many consumers, is routinely confined to the late spring and summer months. White wines are most popular when fish is on the menu and during warmer months. While most reds have assumed the role of pairing only with red meat and preferably in cooler (or very cold) months.

Until recently, dry rosés languished for years in the U.S. marketplace but now represent one of the most explosive segments of the market with double digit year-on-year sales increases. For those interested in a culinary adventure, you will find these wines as perfect accompaniments to a wide range of interesting dishes from hors d'oeuvres through the main course. They are also a delight to observe in the glass and a joy to drink from very pale pink of the Provence-style to richer/deeper shades more in the Tavel-style.

Against conventional wisdom, I always keep rosés in the cellar year-round and with a little less chill find them equally enjoyable in the cooler months. At these "cellar" temperatures they are on the richer side and pair well with a range of savory cool weather dishes.

High quality sparkling wines now originate from most of the world's heralded wine producing countries with fine examples readily available, whether produced by the Méthode Traditionnelle (aka Méthode Champenoise in Champagne), the Charmat Method (aka Metodo Italiano in Italy) or the currently popular Pét-Nat (Pétillant Naturel). Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the driving grapes from many different areas. but indigenous varietals are also used throughout the Old World including Spain's Cava, France's Crémant d'Alsace and Italy's Prosecco.

In addition to christening a ship, toasting a special occasion and kicking off the new year, sparklers shine all year-round. Whether the style is a rosé, brut, blanc de blanc, blanc de noirs or numerous others typical of their region of origin, sparklers will enhance your meal regardless of the occasion and lend an air of celebration any time the cork pops.

White wines offer us some of the most varietally characteristic and versatile choices found anywhere in the vinous world. In cooler months I tend to enjoy more robust examples of Chardonnay or the richer offerings from the Southern Rhone Valley.

During warmer months my tastes gravitate to more minerally Chardonnay and towards more delicate aromatic wines such as Arneis, Verdelho, Chenin Blanc, Torrantes, Riesling or a spicy Gewürztraminer as they pose a better complement to the season's lighter cuisine. Sauvignon Blanc is always a welcome treat regardless of the season and truly special when blended with Semillon as in France’s southern regions of Bordeaux.

When deciding on a red, intriguing Bordeaux, bold Napa Cabernets, higher alcohol Zinfandels and more tannin driven Barolos may initially come to mind as the cooler months of fall and winter seem to better fit the model of a heartier meal. But how about a classic Pinot Noir that is well suited for all seasons, Grenache that is now gaining a strong and multi-purpose persona, Sangiovese or cool climate Merlot and Syrah for year-round enjoyment?

For a real surprise try a lightly chilled Cru or Villages (not Nouveau) Beaujolais or Dolcetto for a winter intermezzo or with a spring/summer main course. And don't forget Pinot Noir with a grilled salmon (yes, red with fish), Zinfandel with BBQ ribs as the weather warms, a delightful Chianti with almost anything (regardless of the outside temperature) and a more elegantly styled Cabernet with grilled chicken and veggies at the picnic table.

Sweet wines also cross over the barriers of seasonality and pairings. From the lightest and most elegant Old World Rieslings and Gewürztraminers – dry or with a touch of sweetness – to their far sweeter siblings, there is a range of flavor and appeal to suit any occasion. Sweeter examples (e.g. Auslese, Vendage Tardive) perfectly pair to the right dessert while drier or semi-sweet styles (e.g. Trocken, Kabinett, Spätlese) will enhance a spicy Asian dish or even a Bavarian bratwurst.

The multi-faceted personalities of Sauternes and Barsac (botrytized Savingnon Blanc and Semillon) are best demonstrated at the beginning of the meal when complementing the classic pairing with a duck liver paté (or foie gras where legal) to enhance its savory nature or by showcasing their elegance at the end with a stylish apple tarte tatin.

The Port wines of Portugal's Duoro Valley symbolize a classic presentation of fortified sweet red wines that are crafted in a variety of styles to fit various roles at the table. Ruby Ports and some 10-Year Tawnys are perfect before the meal or just a tasty treat any time. 20-Year, 30-Year and 40-Year Tawnys, along with vintage dated Cohleitas. are wonderful to sip and savor after a dinner meal in any season.

Because of their unbridled intensity, Vintage Ports may be considered an exception. They are best enjoyed in the cooler weather months while sitting in front of a fire with walnuts and a bit of Stilton cheese. But, if you're not following this English tradition, just feel free to enjoy a glass with friends after the meal or on its own.

Wine has weathered many opinions over the millennia while satisfying the tastes and traditional preferences for countless cultures in so many ways. As we depart winter and enter spring and the warmer months, I suggest you cast aside any preconceived ideas you may have regarding wines for specific seasons and celebrations. Just enjoy the wine of your choice as the exhilarating beverage it is.