2022 - A vintage perspective

The wines of Bordeaux are widely accepted as being among the world's finest, most popular and in some cases also the most expensive. Late last month I again attended the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) tasting in San Francisco where about 80 of Bordeaux's finest châteaux, representing all of the appellation's most prestigious growing areas, poured their treasured wines from the superb 2022 vintage to the trade and press.

The UGCB tastings are always organized by appellation within Bordeaux and feature a range of producers participating from each. In this way, the taster is able to appreciate not only the wine from a specific château, but also experience the personalities of each diverse appellation. Individual characteristics were clearly on display as I proceeded through the tasting, but it was the consistency of quality and precision within the individual appellations, and across the board from one to another that most impressed me.

For the most part, Bordeaux has displayed a range of outstanding vintages since 2014 with a couple of challenging years in 2017 and 2021 where some outstanding wines were produced in spite of various difficult growing conditions. But overall consistency was lacking. Thankfully, 2022 presented a road back to offer some current drinking charm with more to look forward to on the long road ahead.

Before delving into the acclaimed 2022 vintage of Bordeaux, I'd like to take a brief look back at her history which spans two millennia. Vines were first planted in Roman times, where for several centuries the wines were mainly for domestic consumption and quenching the soldiers' thirst. After the Roman Empire fell, the vineyards suffered numerous set-backs continuing through the 5th Century when things began to stabilize under Frankish rule and remained so for the next several centuries.

The marriage of Henry Plantagenet and Eleanor of Aquitaine in the mid-12th Century opened the region to the English market and eventually to the world stage. Trade with England became the foundation of Bordeaux exports until the outbreak of The Hundred Years' War between France and England in 1337 lasting to 1453, when France re-conquered the region and world trade resumed.

Bordeaux is France's largest wine growing area, and one of its largest wine producers and the city of Bordeaux is second only to Paris as the country's most visited. The Gironde River separates its two faces where soil type, elevation and exposure have over the centuries dictated the preferred varieties grown to ensure optimal quality.

On the Right Bank you'll find the celebrated areas of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol where Cabernet Franc and Merlot form the matrix. On the Left Bank lies the Médoc with its several highly esteemed appellations and an emphasis on Cabernet Sauvignon.

To the south of the city and still on the Left Bank, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon become more equal partners in Graves and Pessac-Léognan for reds, with Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon for the highly acclaimed whites. And further south the same white varieties find a home for the luscious sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac.

The 2022 vintage in Bordeaux is described by many in the press as “very good” showing a great sense of freshness and energy. The rains in 2021 resulted in some mold and mildew, but also refreshed the water table that proved a benefit to the hotter and drier conditions experienced in 2022. Early frost and hail damage in specific areas served to lower yields and result in more concentrated wines.

The hotter and drier conditions encouraged smaller berries with thicker skins for a higher skin-to-juice ratio resulting deeper colors, vivid flavors and structured tannins for long term aging potential. In the words of many Bordeaux vignerons and writers, the vintage was very unusual in light of these conditions. They probed the question as to how, with continued high temperatures and prolonged dry periods, could wines of vibrancy and freshness be produced?. This was in contrast to other years such as 2003 and 2008 where similar conditions resulted in awkward wines lacking the appeal and structure of 2022.

Perhaps, noted UK-based wine authority, author, critic and journalist Jancis Robinson phrased it best in characterizing the vintage in her May 6, 2023 post: “Bordeaux’s surprising 2022 vintage.” In her piece, Robinson quoted (among others) Henri Lurton who she described as “a relatively analytical winemaker” of Château Brane-Cantenac: “I’ve studied everything … the plant biology, the condition of the soil et cetera. And I have no idea!”

During the tasting, I sampled more than 50 wines with few disappointments. In reviewing my notes, I found descriptors such as elegance with underlying power, balance, integrated tannins, intense structure, freshness, vibrancy and depth reappearing from appellation to appellation. Yet, there were, as expected, some disappointments along the way. A few of the wines were lacking in mid-palate depth; while a few others went in the opposite direction where over-extraction defied the grace of the vintage.

This year, I found the châteaux of the Left Bank held the edge of quality and interest over those on the Right Bank. Pomerol seemed to lack the power of other outstanding vintages and Saint-Émilion did not exhibit the consistency I’ve experienced in prior years. My choices in Pomerol were Château Beauregard and Château Clinet. And from Saint-Émilion I found Château Canon la Gaffeleière and Château Pavie Macquin to rise above.

The Left Bank was another story where consistency, quality and character were evident in each of the most prestigious appellations and from one to another. Saint-Julien, Margaux and Pauillac were close in the running for top-spot with Graves and Pessac-Léognan a whisper behind. There were too few châteaux from St. Estèphe to make an overall judgement, but Château Phélan Ségur showed beautifully.

The wines of Saint-Julien were superb and representative of the anomaly where the district is home to the largest number of Classified Growths from the 1855 Classification, but no First Growths. Several “Super Seconds” weigh heavily on its overall appeal and form the strength of the appellation. Château Branaire-Ducru, Château Beychevelle and Château Gloria were each outstanding and exhibited the purity and beauty of Saint-Julian.

Margaux again exhibited the greatness of the area with many standouts. The wines demonstrated considerable depth across the appellation that served to balance the nuanced engaging youthful expressions of freshness on the palate and perfume on the nose. Château Brane-Cantenac, Château Lascombes and Château Rauzan-Ségla were all outstanding with several others close behind.

Pauillac was a powerhouse and contained what I considered the two best wines of the tasting. Château Lynch Bages, as a Fifth Growth, displayed its characteristic power and elegance driving its market position closer to the Super Seconds and above. And Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (aka Pichon Lalande) was the epitome of grace from the nose to its finish. These two wines not only expressed the greatness of classic Bordeaux, but also provide a path to excellence for others to follow.

Moving to the south of the city of Bordeaux, the whites of Graves and Pessac-Léognan leant an air of brightness, freshness and appeal one can truly appreciate in a sea of red wines. Varying blends of Sauvignon Blanc for its acidity, citrus accents and structure; and Semillon for its breadth, white pitted-fruit nuances and signature mouthfeel form the perfect partnership in producing wines of great vitality and age ability. The reds, with a higher proportion of Merlot than its Left Bank siblings, displayed elegance and refinement.

The whites, as a group, were excellent and demonstrated outstanding consistency. A few favorites were Château Carbonnieux, Domaine de Chevalier and Château Haut-Bailly. For the reds, I found Château Pape Clément and Château La Louvière a touch above the pack.

Further south lie the famed areas of Sauternes and Barsac best known for the elegant and delectable sweet wines of Bordeaux with Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon as the varieties of choice. Here the wines were once again outstanding but the range was somewhat limited. Château Suduiraut was a welcome surprise as I’ve never been a big fan, However, the 2022 vintage presented a refined perception of elegance I had not experienced in prior vintages. Château Doisy Daëne was outstanding and Château Guiraud was my choice as “Best of Class.”

Surrounding the classified Left Bank communes of Bordeaux, you will find the lesser known “hyphenated” areas of Listrac-Medoc, Moulis-en-Medoc and Haut-Medoc, where, value and accessibility are the main arbiters. Though not considered as the flagship wines of Bordeaux, they are worth a try for early consumption and as an engaging companion to an informal dining experience.

Through the years, I’ve found the UGCB tastings as being extremely well organized and orchestrated in their mission to present Bordeaux as a classic wine growing area that continues to express quality, individuality and an overwhelming sense of tradition. This year’s event was no exception and the 2022 vintage is a welcome return to consistency and allure. It is a vintage to enjoy in its earlier years with even greater benefits to come over future decades in the bottle.