Winter's here - So what about whites?

For many, white wines are reserved for the warmer weather of spring and summer with some consumers disparagingly saying that a "white is something to drink while waiting for the reds to appear." Both opinions are misguided and not representative of the way white wine’s role has always been. And now, with a new generation of adventurous wine enthusiasts, it's certainly not the nature of things to come.

Since I began enjoying wine in the mid-1970s, I've always taken great pleasure in savoring a variety of whites throughout the year. Frankly, I never gave the notion of a perceived seasonality preference a second thought until several years ago, when I began to realize so many consumers were viewing whites as merely a warm weather or very casual beverage.

This outlook is no different than the misconceptions of rosés being only for summer or sparklers only for special occasions. Altering serving temperatures and pairing with compatible dishes will help in refining your white wine selections and you can rest assured a bevy of choices are yours to explore.

Enjoying white wines in the fall and winter months is not meant to replace reds at the table, but only complement them. Just as we continue enjoying reds during summer, why not continue enjoying whites through winter? We may focus on different expressions, but a range of whites is readily available and most welcome during the cooler months.

Is the “old” trend of also enjoying white wine in the cooler as well as the warmer months re-awakening? I believe this is so and all the studies I’ve read indicate a return to this direction. White wines stand on their own and deserve a place at the table through all seasons.

According to Jason Wilson’s August 21, 2024 post in The Wine Review, “The rise of white wine’s popularity… is no longer anecdotal. [Current news] may have surprised a lot of people, but the data is real.”

Wilson went on to say, “The OIV (International Organisation of Vine and Wine), reported that white wine alone now accounts for 43% of global wine consumption, up 10% over the last two decades.” And, with the U.S. being the world’s largest consumer of white wine, the results are even more pronounced here at home.

Much of the increase in white wine production and sales is being driven by younger drinkers entering the market with the “baby boomers” (a statistically shrinking group) still preferring reds. These trends are not seasonal, but reflect choices year-round.

The cuisine of the warmer months differs from that of fall and winter as reflected in the dish’s preparation rather than its core components. Fish, poultry, other white meats, vegetarian selections, fruit based desserts and creamy soft cheeses continue to appear on our dinner table; albeit perhaps in a different presentation. Why should white wine be any different?

As the weather cools, I find myself drinking whites with a bit more body, richness and depth than the livelier, brighter examples from summer. Most will also show better at cellar temperature (about 55 to 60 degrees) as opposed to the well-chilled and lighter wines from summer. Chardonnay, Viognier, Roussanne and Chenin Blanc are among the many good choices.

Stylistically white wines offer a diverse landscape of food friendly examples for the table, spur of the moment occasions and lighter, enjoyable "thirst quenchers" as an aperitif. Your choices may change with the seasons, but the range of whites available is sure to enhance your vinous enjoyment throughout the year.

The versatility of white wines from around the world offers a wide range of aromatics, flavors, texture and structure to enjoy with a wide variety of cuisine for all occasions.

Aromatic and flavor profiles from citrus to various shades of apple and pitted fruits and on to a variety of tropical accents offer many food-pairing options. Textural and structural characteristics also present a broad range of expression from acidity driven brightness to lush, rich and full bodied textures along with layers of complexity accented by minerality to inspire the experience. The range is endless and seen across the spectrum of varieties, growing areas and winemaking traditions.

Italy's Pinot Grigio helped break down barriers to the import and popularity of moderately priced white wines in the U.S. more than four decades ago. It was then joined by its French counterpart Pinot Gris (same grape different lineage). Today both co-exist in the market displaying different styles whether produced from their native vineyards, here in the U.S. or elsewhere abroad.

The famed Rieslings of Germany display an expansive range of style on their own from the very dry Trocken wines through several classified levels of sweetness to the unctuous Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein (actually vinified from raisined grapes frozen on the vine).

Whites are enjoyed internationally throughout the year to complement local cuisine such as the plentiful fish of the Mediterranean and an exotic range of veal and pork sausage from Germany and Austria. Some of the lesser known favorites that have gained popularity in the market over recent years are Albariño from Spain, Torrontés from Argentina, Gewürztraminer from Alsace, Grüner Veltliner from Austria, Verdelho from Portugal, as well as Arneis and Gavi from Italy.

A few of the newer additions on the domestic wine scene that bear searching out are: From the Rhône, Grenache Blanc, Picpoul Blanc and blends containing Clairette and Bourboulenc. From Spain, Verdejo (not to be confused with Verdelho from Portugal), Godello, Macabeo and Xerel-lo. And from Italy, Vermentino, Fiano and Garganega (Soave Classico).

And the good news is, many of these traditional Old World varieties have found a home in the U.S. where growing conditions may be different, but the wines produced can range from very good to spectacular.

Many studies of the drinking patterns for both red and white wines have been recently chronicled by the industry, press and a growing number of social media outlets. For the most part they have reflected not only the increase in white wine preferences, but also the skewing of opinion away from merely a warm weather beverage to one that’s enjoyed during all seasons.

In the mid-2010s this trend became obvious, as pointed out in the online newsletter and blog VinePair that conducted a survey of their more than 100,000 subscribers and contributors across the U.S. at that time. The statistics from this study were somewhat eye-opening then and continue to reflect on today’s white wine audience. A cross-section of respondents showed they drink wine often and love to explore new and diverse growing areas.

The "next generation" wine drinkers in VinePair’s survey showed 79% of the respondents drink white wine all year long. More than 80% choose whites because they are refreshing and easy to drink; almost 60% think whites pair well with food and half see them as "not being heavy." All good reasons to appreciate the diversity of white wine throughout the year with a variety of culinary fare and celebratory times.

I may enjoy different whites in the summer months such as the more aromatic varietals and those made in a lighter style. However, as the temperatures begin to fall my tastes gravitate (though not completely transform) to richer and bolder examples. From a brisk Sauvignon Blanc, delicate Grüner Veltliner or aromatic Torrontés in the summer to a rich North Coast Chardonnay, opulent Vouvray, a range of outstanding choices from the Rhône or white Burgundy in the cooler months.

There’s no doubt white wine has a place in our glass and at our table for all seasons. Be sure to give some of your favorites, along with some new choices, a try and you won’t be disappointed.