An Evening of legendary wines

Allen R. Balik

Last week, my wife Barbara and I attended a most unique and inspiring evening to celebrate several legendary wines and commemorate one that exemplified a “gift that kept on giving.” Several years ago, Sharon and Hal Lampert – friends and co-chairmen of our “Culinary Evening with the California Winemasters” benefitting the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation – donated a 6.0L (Imperial or sometimes referred to as a Methuselah) of 1996 Domaine de la Romanée Conti Romanée-St.-Vivant.

The bottle was then purchased by another friend and last year re-donated to the Emeril Legasse Foundation’s Carnivale du Vin in New Orleans to aid in their “Mission to inspire, mentor and enable youth to reach their full potential.” At Carnivale du Vin, it was purchased by Elisha and Dan Ballard of Newport Beach. Between the two charity wine auctions this Imperial of DRC Romanée-St.-Vivant generated tens of thousands of dollars in needed funds for both charities and all who benefit from their good work.

Elisha and Dan generously wanted to share this treasure with others and so, “An evening of legendary wines” was born and enjoyed by noted winemakers, vintners, restaurateurs, sommeliers, chefs, collectors and others who love wine, outstanding cuisine and helping others.

Throughout the evening we were treated to the delights of 2005 and 2008 Louis Roederer Cristal Champagne in magnum, the Imperial of 1996 Domaine de la Romanée Conti Romanée-St.-Vivant, another Imperial of 2006 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lelande (aka Pichon Lelande), and 1990 Château d’Yquem in magnum. A beautiful collection of wines and all paired to the creative cuisine of Napa (born and raised) Chef Gary Penir of Cuisine GP.

Chef Gary’s culinary credentials are evidenced by his Level 2 Chef de Cuisine certification through the American Culinary Federation. His love and appreciation of wine as a normal accompaniment to the meal is validated by his Level 1 Sommelier status and Level 1 Certified Wine Professional ranking by the CIA at Greystone. Throughout his career, he has worked in the kitchens of prominent chefs and Michelin starred restaurants both at home and abroad as well as now directing the culinary needs for many of Napa and Sonoma’s most prestigious wineries.

Cristal is the flagship (Grands Marques) of Louis Roederer Champagne and was originally created by Louis Roederer himself on the personal request of Tsar Alexander II in 1876. Tsar Alexander wanted a personal cuvée (blend) unique in terms of style and bottle. In answer, Roederer offered the Tsar a crystal bottle containing a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend specifically created from select blocks within the seven Grande Crus of the estate.

2005 and 2008 are both classic vintages in Champagne and having them side-by-side in magnum was quite a rewarding experience. The 2008 is just beginning to settle from the primary fruit profile of youth to the more complex integration of flavor and texture as it approaches its peak. A bright golden hue was followed by hints of brioche, citrus and green apple on the nose that carried forward to the palate with elegance and a tangy mouthfeel.

The 2005 Cristal exhibited a livelier mousse (stream of bubbles) and appeared a bit fresher on the palate with feminine notes and lively acidity. It began to reveal some subtle signs of maturity but may reach its peak beyond the 2008 timetable.

Both were a treat to enjoy with Chef Gary’s canapes of tuna belly with lemon verbena, daikon and rose hibiscus along with black pepper beef empanadas with aioli and chervil. Together, they leant a festive beginning for the evening.

Romanée-St.-Vivant is situated in the commune of Vosne-Romanée and boarders on the Domaine de la Romanée Conti’s monopole (sole ownership) vineyard of Romanée Conti and the Richebourg appellation. It is one of six Grands Crus of Vosne-Romanée that together occupy a mere 50-plus acres in Burgundy. DRC is the largest owner in the appellation and shares its precious ground with others such as Leroy, Dujac and Arnoux.

Highly respected Burgundy aficionado, Clive Coates once described the wines of Romanée-St.-Vivant as “The most delicate, the most feminine of the Vosne Grands Crus...at its best it is a silky and exquisitely perfumed wine…” The 1996 we enjoyed last week certainly lived up to this description and more.

1996 was an excellent vintage in Burgundy and stands shoulder-to-shoulder with other stars of the decade like 1995 and 1990. In the glass I observed the expected light ambler color with a solid core and lightening at the edges. The nose was a complex web of red and black cherries, a spice accent and secondary notes of dried crushed violets.

The palate was remarkable in terms of inherent structure and balance with a rich mouthfeel that worked seamlessly with the character of mature tannin and still lively acidity. The finish was long and layered intensifying the palate impression and leaving a lasting memory. While approaching its peak, the delicate balance and remarkable acidity bodes for many years of enjoyment to come.

My observation was also confirmed after some time in the glass as the intensity developed at every stage from nose through palate and on to the finish. A remarkable wine: many thanks to the Ballards for generously sharing it with us.

Whenever savoring a vintage of Pichon Lelande, my mind travels back to a lunch I enjoyed in the early 2000s with Madame May de Lencquesaing (then owner and managing director of the estate) at the Masters of Food and Wine event in Monterey, CA. She extended a personal touch to the wines we were enjoying and made the experience forever lasting and most memorable.

Madame de Lencquesaing served in that role for 30 years from 1978 to 2007 when she sold the estate to Louis Roederer and moved to the Stellenbosch region of South Africa to pursue her next vinous adventure with Glenelly Estate. Today, she continues in that role at the age of 98. Hats off to Madame de Lencquesaing as we relished this “Super-Second” Saint-Julian Bordeaux in a rare 6.0L Imperial format from the 1855 classification and her last wine at Pichon Lelande.

The deep ruby hue was intense from the core to the outer edge that would be more reminiscent of a younger wine. Restrained notes of red current, cassis and black berries dominated the nose in a youthful fashion leading to complex palate reflecting the depth of the nose. The palate also presented a rich mouthfeel with “sweet” tannins, opulent fruit and defined structure. The finish carried on the complexity of the nose and palate that began with an elegant touch and grew in depth for a complete experience.

With time in the glass, the nose opened and the palate expanded to reveal more of what the future of this wine will be in years to come. Rich, intense, complex and a finely structured balance expressed the personality of the 2006 Pichon Lelande along with a hidden WOW factor that escaped definition. A real treat and testament to the tireless efforts of Madame May de Lencquesaing.

With these two majestic reds from Burgundy and Bordeaux, we enjoyed the main courses prepared by Chef Gary. On a beautiful buffet service we were treated to a variety of dishes that both compared and contrasted with the complex characters of the wines.

A fall squash salad of koginut squash, pink lady apples, bacon lardon, pomegranate and pepitas was dressed with a parsley pomegranate molasses vinaigrette. The rich Armenian lamb stew with green beans and Greek yogurt was a perfect foil to Zabuton steak in chermoula jus with potato covered by a crispy egg yolk. The dishes may be difficult to explain but were a treasure to enjoy.

The famed Bordeaux Classification of 1855 was largely focused on the red wines of the Medoc district. However, it also included a supplemental classification of 26 wines from the southern areas of Sauternes and Barsac. Here, the sweet white wines were divided into two categories – Premier Cru and Second Cru – with one exception. Château d’Yquem was singularly designated as Premier Cru Superieur in acknowledgment of its exceeding high quality and demand.

1990 was an outstanding vintage throughout Bordeaux and Sauternes was no exception. The magnum we enjoyed displayed a brilliant burnt amber hue with golden overtones. The nose was typical of a finely aged Yquem with notes of dried stone fruits and honey accented by hints of fragrant sweet spice.

The palate displayed a decadent richness carrying on the distinctive nature of the nose with complex layers and signature opulence. The finish was equally complex and layered accenting an elegant expression of unique flavors and texture – an expression the estate’s regal heritage.

Chef Gary’s multidimensional culinary/vinous talent was on full display with the intricate dish he so masterfully created to pair with the 1990 Château d’Yquem in magnum. Who would ever think of a Foie Gras Baklava? Well, that’s exactly what Chef Gary crafted. The sweetness of the baklava paired to the “dessert-side” of Yquem’s multi-dimensional personality while the foie gras was the traditional match for its savory side.

A brilliant pairing to end a magical evening of legendary wines!