Appreciating both New and Old Worlds

Allen R. Balik

Like many others in the wine world both here and abroad, I often refer to a wine's style in terms of the New or Old World. But I also realize that unfortunately, and perhaps subconsciously, I've paid little attention to whether others understood the terminology or its suggested stylistic inferences.

Traditionally the Old World encompasses Europe and principally, France, Italy, Germany, Spain and Portugal where wine grapes have flourished for millennia and wine has always played a significant role in many facets of life. The New World is essentially everywhere else where grapes are grown and wine is produced even though the traditions may go beyond "New" and often span centuries as in South Africa, Australia, Argentina, Chile and the U.S.

The terms are usually understood in describing specific stylistic models with the Old World focusing more on elegance, structure, sense of place and ageability and the New World expressing bold fresh fruit, opulence and early approachability. Many exceptions exist and none are necessarily better than the other, but they are different and consumers are free to make the choices that best suit their preferences.

However, in the overall context of New and Old World wines I tend to look a little deeper than just the stylistic impression of the wine itself. The Old World has evolved over time and the wines produced in a given area are not only reflective of culture, history and geography but also their local cuisine. Standards for growing specific varieties in distinct areas were developed over the centuries through trial and error without our current technology to help lead the way.

The cuisines of Burgundy and Bordeaux differ greatly and reflect the compatibility with the wines grown in each area. The same is true for the classic dishes of Tuscany and Piedmont as well as countless other Old World areas. The growers of old simply planted grapes that would flourish in their specific areas long before the idea of terroir existed and through generations of trial and error the best varieties found their way to the top of the ladder.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc in Bordeaux, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Burgundy, Sangiovese in Tuscany, Nebbiolo in Piedmont and Tempranillo in Rioja are just a few examples. And when the wines were enjoyed over the dinner table in each locality, complementary dishes evolved over time.

The New World developed much more rapidly with the history of the Old World as a reference point and a bevy of proven varietals at its disposal. But the learning curve did not always point upward. Specific grapes were frequently planted in less hospitable areas with mixed results that tended to follow market demands rather than honoring a sense of climate, terroir and local cuisine as associated with European traditions.

As the New World matured some similarities to their Old World counterparts began to emerge along with various significant differences that served to maintain their individuality and personality in both international and domestic markets. Wine growing and the concept of terroir did not exist in most areas of the New World and the U.S. in particular.

New Orleans cuisine grew from its cultural roots and that big steak dinner in Texas was the result of expanded cattle herds and ranching. There were no grapes growing in these or most other areas so consumer choice was based more on market availability than the compatibility of cuisine and culture as seen in the Old World.

While wine is now produced in all 50 states, California is responsible for more than 80% of U.S. wine and with Washington and Oregon added to the mix, the total exceeds 90% for the west coast. Add in the broad access to imports, it’s obvious that local wine production has little if anything to do with local cuisine in our domestic market.

Europe was first to designate specific geographical areas (i.e. appellations) and periodically grade them on objective standards (e.g. Grand Cru, Premier Cru and Village) to maintain quality. These appellations are strictly overseen by government agencies and mostly go beyond set geographic boundaries to include mandated growing and harvest requirements, winemaking regulations (e.g. minimum/maximum alcohol, barrel aging and permitted additives) authorized varieties and strict labeling requirements.

Appellation standards have also been adopted by most New World growing areas (in the U.S. we have the American Viticultural Area – AVA – system) that are not necessarily as strict. The AVA’s focus is primarily on geographic borders – not on varieties allowed or other restrictive winemaking and growing dictates as seen in much of the Old World.

For example, we know of Oakville as a sub-AVA of Napa Valley with specific boundaries, but nowhere is it written that only Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc may be grown. Nor is there any reference to minimum standards on sugar levels at harvest (potential alcohol) mandated length of barrel aging or maximum crop loads as are often dictated by appellation standards in the Old World.

In the New World we mostly see varietal labeling (Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Chardonnay etc.) with some proprietary blends such as Joseph Phelps Insignia and Ridge Montebello available. Yet most of the Old World relies on labeling depicting the growing area (Burgundy, Rioja, Chianti etc.) or the producer (Château Lafite Rothschild, Dom Perignon, Domaine de la Romanée Conti etc.) with varietal labeling used in some areas such as Alsace and Sicily to a far lesser degree.

The technology that drove the New World expansion in recent times is balanced by the long held traditions of the Old World. We gave the Old World stainless steel fermentation tanks and they gave us oak barrels for fermentation and aging. A great trade that benefitted everyone.

Farming techniques such as vine spacing, row direction and pruning/training methods are not usually interchangeable as they are highly dependent on soil and climatic conditions in the vineyard. Still, when freely shared by New and Old World vintners the knowledge is mutually beneficial.

Wines from both the New and Old Worlds are readily available in the market and the diversity presented is a bonus to all. Enjoy them, savor the differences, note the similarities and appreciate the cultural values of both worlds.