As Summer Turns To Fall

By: Allen R. Balik

Fall itself is a transitional season between the long warm sunny days of summer and the shorter cold rainy (we hope) days of winter. So, what do we do with all those terrific wines we've been enjoying the last few months with summer’s lighter fare for their bright fruit, enticing aromatics and congenial pairings?

Summer has always been my most exciting time of the year when it comes to selecting from a diverse line-up of elegant, bright and lively wines that pair so attractively with the outdoors and casual cuisine. The list seems endless when it comes to sparklers, rosés, whites, sleeker reds and even those less intense dessert-style wines.

But the good news is that when transitioning through the seasons there's no reason to abandon our favorites that we've been enjoying. However, a little recalibration may be needed regarding the way we serve the wines and select the dishes that pair with them.

As we enter fall, just ignore the familiar adage that rosés are only meant for summertime enjoyment. Nothing could be further from the truth as they pair well with so many dishes and along with most of the “summer” whites, are best appreciated at differing serving temperatures in different seasons.

Generally speaking, chilling your wines (whites, rosés and lighter reds) in summer enhances acidity and brightness to complement the warmer temps. Backing off a bit on the cooling levels in fall will amplify the fruit, texture and balance for the season’s more savory cuisine and indoor dining.

The well-chilled Torrontés, dry Riesling, Albariño, Soave Classico or Chenin Blanc that paired perfectly with fruit and cheese plates on a late summer afternoon, can take on a different personality with less of a chill when served with pasta alla oglio or a pan-roasted branzino. And how about a "cellar" temperature (roughly 60 degrees) rosé paired with poached or grilled salmon?

In the cooler months, our selection of whites will broaden. Opulent Chardonnays (the best are balanced without oak and alcohol dominance), Grüner Veltliner or Arneis along with richer blends typical of Bordeaux (Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon) or the Rhone (Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Grenache Blanc, etc.) will make far more frequent appearances on our dining room table.

Many of the lighter reds such as Cru or Villages Beaujolais, Dolcetto and Valpolicella that welcomed a little chill in the summer will prove delightful for fall when closer to “room” temperature. In the coming season, I will also look forward to mid-weight reds accompanying a broader range of more robust cuisine.

I anticipate with pleasure the welcome flavors and textures of Cabernet Franc, Malbec (some great ones are now coming out of Napa and Sonoma), Merlot and numerous choices from Tuscany, the Rhone, Spain and elsewhere. Pinot Noir is often seen as a favorite that deftly bridges the gap from lighter reds to bold Cabernets. Let’s also not forget Zinfandel – often referred to as "California's grape" – that pairs beautifully with a variety of meat and fowl dishes so typical of the season.

The rich and velvety sweet wines of Germany, Sauternes, Austria and Alsace are a delight with warm stone fruit cobblers and a selection of hearty cheeses such as Gorgonzola, Roquefort, Cambozola or a wedge of brie with a drizzle of truffled honey. Transitioning from summer also adds the opportunity to enjoy several Ports for welcome additions either as an aperitif, with dessert or after the meal.

Both Ruby and White Ports are lighter and will add a little warmth to the reception as your guests gather for dinner. For a chocolate based desert, 10-Year Tawnys are a delightful choice. And after the meal, Vintage Port, older Tawnys or aged Colheitas are sublime with walnuts or a mature Stilton. Port wines, in all their stylistic interpretations are surprisingly versatile and a perfect match to fall dining while reaching even greater heights in the colder winter months ahead.

When the leaves start to turn and harvest (which began last week with Domaine Chandon’s first pick) is in full swing for another banner Napa vintage, my awareness is once again peaked in anticipation of the coming season. I delight in the opportunity to enjoy so many great wines accompanied by a wide range of dining experiences unique to this time of year.

Summer may be waning and winter is yet to arrive, but the exhilaration of fall’s transitional role is something we will all be enjoying soon.