Wine’s Elegant Expression

By: Allen R. Balik

Elegant and elegance are terms that often become part of the conversation when describing a wine. But, like minerality and certain other descriptors, they have no specific meaning other than you’ll know it when you experience it.

There are several accepted definitions of elegance that vary somewhat in the application of the terminology. However, it is generally recognized in reference to a graceful stylish appearance or manner that is also both pleasingly ingenious yet simple.

While the term is often used as a standard for being tasteful with a sense of beauty and simplicity of expression, others also see it as communicating notes of quality. Elegance, by its very nature, is quite subjective and takes on a range of personal interpretations, especially in relation to the vinous experience

As surprising as it may seem, relating elegance to wine does not necessarily negate the impression of power and depth. On the surface this may be seen as a contradiction in terms and intent, but that’s not necessarily so. For eons the grace and weight of Château Mouton Rothschild has been synonymous with the classic “Iron fist in a velvet glove” descriptor. Yet, the elegance of this Bordelaise First Growth “giant” is widely recognized and appreciated.

Must all great wines demonstrate a level of elegance? Not really. It would be difficult to relate the term to a massive Barolo or a broad-shouldered California Cabernet Sauvignon in their youth. But, through aging and patience many of these wines also reach their height of elegance as the tannins mellow and seamlessly integrate with notes of acidity and secondary fruit intonations.

These bolder examples may never reach the expression of elegance we find in a delicate Mosel Riesling or a dazzling Sancerre from France’s Loire Valley. But still, their elegance articulates itself in a different context and is appreciated in so many ways. It’s the individual personality of each wine that frames its character in a range of styles, making the search even more interesting.

In the June 15 & 30 issue of Wine Spectator, Senior Editor Alison Napjus reflected on questions posed during a recent virtual conference featuring a panel of Italian winemakers. “Is the term ‘elegant’ over used in wine? And, do the ‘elegant’ wines of the world have the capacity to age?”

Napjus observed, “…both questions piggyback on each other, strongly answering each other, and in doing so highlight some of the intangible aspects of wine – the qualities that make it more than a beverage we drink to satisfy thirst.” She continued, “I hope the wine world will have more wines described as elegant, and I think as a result, we will have many more wines with the capacity to age.”

I have often used the term elegant in describing wines both in their youth and after spending significant time in the bottle. To get a broader view of its meaning in wine, I decided to go beyond textbook definitions and reach out to several winemaker friends (all are well known and highly respected in their field) to gain further insight on elegance and its close connection to fine wines.

While each had a personal opinion about the term, all were quick to reference “balance” in their responses. Therefore, when discussing wine, elegance can be interpreted in many different ways but the critical balance of its individual components is essential from youth through maturity.

Stéphane Vivier is the owner and winemaker of Vivier Wines in Sonoma who relies on his Burgundian heritage and 20 plus years of Napa/Sonoma winemaking experience to shape his opinions. His first response was brief and on-point: “Elegance is a wine that flows.”

Stéphane then supported this opinion by saying, “Balance is something to look for in the vineyards first, finding it between the crop, the canopy and the soil and then in your glass. In Burgundy, we often talk of elegance in how ethereal Chardonnay or Pinot Noir can be. That lightness and aerial taste of wine can only be found in wine that ’flows’ when none of the parts take advantage over another, but they all mesh together for a result that feels flawless therefore elegant.”

Randle Johnson, recently retired as founding winemaker for The Hess Collection and its sister Artezin Wines, is currently the owner and winemaker of his Calafia Wines in St. Helena. Randle’s 47-year winemaking career spans decades in both the northern and southern hemispheres for a staggering total of 64 harvests.

“When thinking of elegance in a wine, I first have to consider its structure and the balance of its components to ensure none overpowers the others. When acidity, fruit, alcohol and tannins complement each other, elegance is expressed by a seamless texture, subtlety and nuance. In reds I look for finely grained tannins and in whites it’s crisp acidity and brightness that underscores an elegant personality.”

And for a somewhat more personal view, Zak Miller, Sparkling Winemaker for Domaine Carneros in Napa’s Carneros District, often uses elegant as a descriptor when speaking about his wines and others.

“I don’t think of elegance in terms of individual flavors per se, but rather the overall balance, and even aura of our wines. Elegance is embodied not only in the wine but in the experience for the taster, making it a very individual experience. Elegance can be a noun but also an adjective in this case and when a wine makes me feel elegant, I will go back to it again and again.”

While big and bold wines have, since the late-1980s, taken center-stage in the ratings and 100-point scale, it’s the impression of elegance that leaves a lasting memory and desire for a second glass. Throughout the world of wine there are few descriptors that motivate an introspective grasp of what we’re drinking more than elegance. It invites us to think and “climb into the glass” to capture the true nature of what we are appreciating.

Hedonistic (a favorite Robert Parker term) wines come directly at you with forward, often intrusive, fruit and soft structural elements. Elegant wines, however, are far more patient and wait for you to come to them. The overall experience is intriguing and makes the journey worthwhile.