Crystal Springs - Napa Valley's newest AVA

Augusta, Missouri became the first American Viticultural Area (AVA) declared by the BATF (Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms now known as Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau or TTB) in 1980. This was followed in 1981 by Napa Valley as the second. Now, Napa’s newest and 17th “nested” AVA (aka sub-appellation) was declared this month as Crystal Springs of Napa Valley (CSNV) which follows Coombsville as its 16th declared in 2011.

The long awaited CSNV AVA is nestled between St. Helena, Calistoga and Howell Mountain AVAs and the Conn Valley area. This is the only “all hillside” AVA and ranges from 400 feet (upper reaches of the valley floor) to 1,400 feet (minimum for mountain top) in elevation and unlike its Howell Mountain neighbor above, is in and below the fog line. In total the AVA spans more than 4,000 acres with 230 acres planted to vines. That represents only 6% under vine due to its rugged terrain.

American Viticultural Areas are based on geographical perimeters. This differs from the many designated European growing areas; where in addition to geographical lines, the governing agencies also impart a plethora of added restrictions. Many define the grape varieties being grown and some also add stipulations on vine density per hectare (HA), maximum yields, alcohol content, aging regimens and several other growing/winemaking regulations.

Some European growing areas go even further in grading vineyards based on historic quality levels such as Burgundy’s Grands Cru, Premier Cru and Village. On the Left Bank of Bordeaux, you have the five classified growths (First, Second, Third, Fourth and Fifth) established in 1855. While on the Right Bank there are different levels in St. Emilion that are reviewed and recalculated every 10 years.

Other designations and requirements also exist in Spain, Italy, Portugal and elsewhere across the globe. But, here in the U.S we rely only on the geographical boundaries based on the communication of scientific observations. The determined geographical boundaries encompass unique considerations of soil types, exposures, altitudes and other factors that differentiate each from its neighbors. However, varietal selection, growing decisions and winemaking judgements are left up to the growers, vintners and winemakers.

Among other oversight programs, the Napa Valley Vintners (NVV) has a “Name Protection Committee” that was embodied to support domestic and global efforts in the protection the Napa Valley brand. As part of its role, the committee reviews and either accepts or challenges all new AVA applications. In this case, NVV was active in efforts of drawing the final boundaries to ensure there was no overlap with neighboring and existing AVAs or brand conflict. This role is an integral part of NVV’s mission and responsibility.

In establishing the new AVA, Crystal Springs Winery was located in the adjoining Calistoga AVA, but wanted to be a part of CSNV. Given its location at the outer border of the Calistoga AVA there was a possibility of both the overlap and brand conflict scenarios. This necessitated some difficult compromises for an ultimate solution.

Through the cooperative efforts of the winery, NVV, Calistoga AVA executives and CSNV supporters, the boundary lines of the Calistoga AVA were revised to place Crystal Springs Winery in the new AVA to avoid any naming conflicts and overlap issues.

The hillside CSNV is frost-free with a Mediterranean climate tempered by the Pacific Ocean effects through the Calistoga Gap resulting in daytime temperatures about 5 degrees cooler than the Valley floor. As the saying goes, “Bacchus Amat Colles” – Bacchus (the Roman God of Wine) loves the hills.

With the establishment of the CSNV, its growers and vintners are now able to differentiate their unique space on the label from the general Napa Valley AVA. This allows for better identification of a wine’s character with consumers, retailers, restaurants and the press.

In extending his congratulations to the Crystal Springs of Napa Valley AVA, Napa Valley Vintner’s Vice-President of Industry Relations Rex Stults said, “This is a great example of Napa leaders coming together for the greater good of the Napa Valley. NVV is very supportive in the establishment of nested AVAs as they add a positive element to the Napa Valley brand while also increasing its name recognition globally and among educated consumers.”

Tom and Linda Burgess moved from New York to Napa Valley while pregnant with their son Steven, who was born during Burgess Cellars' first vintage in 1972. Steven essentially spent his entire life living and working (from harvest to planting along with hospitality and sales) among the vines and hills of what was to become the science-based Crystal Springs of Napa Valley AVA.

Market demands and consumer appreciation of nested AVAs became a driving force moving Steven’s pursuit, along with other growers and vintners in the area, to petition and establish the CSNV. As he says, “Nested AVAs became critical for consumers in having an inkling to what was in the bottle based on legitimate legal information on the label. Sure, there are house styles and winemaker choices, but the concept of terroir is dominated by climate, soil types and other intrinsic factors. Consumers have become more aware of which aromatic and flavor profiles they like, and in turn, which AVAs they prefer.”

Steven began working with the TTB in 2005 while in his thirties. The recession, market demands and his father’s death in 2017 delayed the process. He then resumed his effort in 2018. Even though Steven sold the family winery to Lawrence Wine Estates in 2020, he continued his mission that same year by submitting the formal petition. Public comment commenced in 2023 and final declaration was received this month as he is in his fifties. His goal was the establishment of the AVA, and through his dedication, he made it happen.

As Steven stated, “I grew up on this land and in this area and it’s always been home to me. I continued my efforts in establishing CSNV after the sale of Burgess Cellars as I always had my community in mind and it was never just about me.”

Carlton McCoy M.S. lends a multi-faceted perspective on the establishment of the new CSNV AVA. As a Master Sommelier, Carlton is able to view the AVA through a wine-professional’s eye. And as CEO of Lawrence Wine Estates – Burgess Cellars’ current owner – he also has the responsibility of seeing the AVA’s establishment as a business and marketing opportunity.

”We are elated with the approval of the new Crystal Springs of Napa Valley AVA. An appellation’s sole purpose is to communicate to the wine buyer that the vineyards in a certain area possess special growing conditions that produce distinctive wines.”

Carlton also related a bit of the vineyard’s history. “The Sorenson Vineyard we own at Burgess Cellars has been celebrated since the 19th century. Swiss Italian immigrants developed and farmed it until prohibition. It was Lee Stewart of Souverain that recognized the significance of this steep, rocky hillside vineyard and crafted from it some of the most compelling, age worthy and collectable wines in the 1940s, 1950s and 1960s. This proof of vineyard pedigree is what led Tom Burgess to purchase the site in 1972. Through the next 40-plus vintages [wines were produced] that have aged gracefully while expressing a structure distinctly different from [neighboring] St. Helena and Howell Mountain.”

On the marketing side, Carlon went on to say, “Generally, we are able to craft balanced, classical wines that have great concentration and an intensity of flavor, but without the more stringent tannins associated with Howell Mountain. With the other pedigreed vineyards in the new AVA such as Dana’s Lotus Vineyard, I am confident that collectors will seek out CSNV wines with even more vigor.”

Tom Trzesniewski, General Manager of Bremer Family Winery on Deer Park Road in the heart of CSNV says, “We are very excited about the establishment of the AVA and anxious work side-by-side with our fellow vintners and growers to express the quality of our fruit and terroir in the finished wines. It may take some time to catch-up in the market with other long established Napa Valley nested AVAs, but the journey will be rewarding.”

Currently, Bremer has 52 acres in the CSNV AVA with 10 acres planted, and 42 acres in the Howell Mountain AVA with 14 acres planted. The plan of owners Laura and John Bremer is to increase their plantings in both areas over the near future with an increased emphasis now on their CSNV property. Several Cabernets and Claret-style blends are being produced highlighting various vineyard blocks, varieties and clones. Each is intended by Winemaker Bob Bolan to express its own unique character.

Delia Viader established her eponymous estate winery in 1986 with its first release of a Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc proprietary blend from the 1989 vintage. As the owner and founding winemaker, Delia has been producing highly acclaimed wines from her property at the 1,300 foot elevation on Howell Mountain for 35 years.

While Viader Vineyards & Winery will continue to produce and label their wines as they have since their founding, Delia sees the establishment of the new AVA as, “A fantastic opportunity for newer vintners by enhancing their ability to express the quality of the area’s fruit to an audience that will begin to appreciate its distinctive wines.”

In addition to several wineries located in CSNV, there are also several growers that stand to gain from the area’s recognition as an AVA. Growing grapes in the steep rocky terrain of the area is a costly and arduous task that is no different than the neighboring St. Helena or Howell Mountain AVAs. Now with its AVA designation, CSNV vintners will be able to label their wines as such and growers will be in a more advantageous position to compete on a level playing field with their better known and more highly recognized neighbors.

Emmett Tetz planted his Tetz Family Vineyard in 1985. Now joined by his son Lee, they feel they can benefit from the area’s unique qualities and avoid being “lumped in” with St. Helena or Howell Mountain by carving out their individual character.

Lee took pride in discussing some of those indigenous characteristics such as temperature differentials from the valley floor below and mountain tops above, the absence of frost throughout the growing season and the steep rocky nature of the soils, thus forcing each vine’s roots to dig deeper for its needed moisture. Looking to the future, Lee went on to say, "The recognition of Crystal Springs of Napa Valley AVA will finally allow us to celebrate the unique challenges of farming this area as well as the spectacular qualities of the fruit it bears."

Whether from the grower or vintner’s perspective the formal establishment of the Crystal Springs of Napa Valley AVA will prove a benefit to all. Hopefully, those benefits will translate to the consumer through the trade, with increased brand recognition and the ability to appreciate the individualistic character of the wines.