It’s all about complexity

Whether in conversation or when reading a tasting note on a specific wine, the discussion is often limited to its aromatics (nose) and flavor (a significant part of the palate experience). More often than not, I find little or no reference to the underlying foundation of the wine’s personality that ultimately leads to its uniqueness and character.

Flavor is of course an important aspect. However, it is dominated by our olfactory senses working together with our taste buds to provide the overall concept of taste. Aromatics and flavor are not necessarily separate entities and each one is affected in great measure by the other. Yet together, they do not represent the entirety of the overall conversation.

Can we ever imagine enjoying a wine with off-putting odors or offensive flavors? Obviously not. Therefore, while focusing on these components at one level makes sense, but it does not reflect the entire picture. On another level, when considering only these elements we miss the core components that, when properly combined, comprise the heart of the wine’s true and complete character.

Looking beyond the important notes of aromatics and flavor charts a path to a more in-depth vinous experience by unlocking a fine wine’s “complexity” supported by texture, balance and structure.

Webster defines complexity as "the state of not being simple" and complex as "a whole made up of complicated or interrelated parts." So, how does all this work as a wine descriptor, and is it really meaningful in assessing the true quality and charisma of a wine?

When I think of complexity in wine, I begin by seeing layers of aromatics and flavors working together in an integrated and balanced fashion with the total impression presenting itself as greater than the sum of its parts. Complexity is far more than the "fruit bowl" of smells and flavors we often read in a critic's tasting notes or hear about in conversation. It is the signature statement of all great wines and the missing link in others that may be pleasant to drink but are rather simple in nature.

On a very basic level, we can observe how wine appeals to all five senses. Popping the cork or clinking a glass in a joyful toast is always a welcome introduction of what’s to come. While observing its color we perceive the range of positive or negative impressions. The next step is taking a deep sniff, as we begin to comprehend its complexity, depth and freshness vs. age.

On the palate, we absorb the layers of flavor and how they complement the nose while also experiencing the fifth (tactile) sense expressed by the wine’s texture and mouthfeel. Is it rough and grainy or silky and velvety? Does it create a positive memory?

On the finish, three of the five senses (olfactory, gustatory and tactile) reappear. Here, they combine to complete a harmonizing or disappointing impression depending on what’s perceived along the way. This exploration of the five senses and their application to wine becomes the introduction to appreciating the full experience.

Whether subconsciously, when casually enjoying a glass of wine, or consciously when evaluating it for review, we can also appreciate (beyond the first impressions of bouquet and flavor) its texture, balance and structure helping us to gain an overall impression of what any wine has to offer.

So, what about these additional components? How can we recognize them and what is their contribution to the enjoyment or critical appeal of a wine? This is not a complicated exercise and is no different than appreciating or rejecting the appeal of a dish based on its aromas, flavors, texture and presentation.

When I first began my wine exploration I was told by good friends, vintners and educators that understanding the “balance” of a wine will sharpen my view of its other characteristics. At that time, this concept was difficult to comprehend as I was reticent to move beyond my comfort zone with the simple attributes of bouquet and flavor in my assessments.

However, everything came into clear focus at a particular tasting when I was describing a wine with all the well-known and commonly used descriptors of flavors and aromatics. One of my fellow tasters in the group stopped me and rather emphatically suggested that I look beyond these simple descriptors and tell him how the wine felt in my mouth and what component, if any, stood out. Suddenly I realized what texture and balance meant to the tasting experience and how understanding them enabled me to go a step further in my assessment of the wine.

Balance is achieved and appreciated when no component (fruit, acidity, tannin or alcohol) assumes a dominant role. Each component complements rather than overshadows any other. All are identifiable in expressing their own contribution while working in seamless harmony to create an interwoven tapestry that elevates the overall experience.

Contrary to popular perception, it is important to note that balance is not “achieved” during the aging process. Only when a wine is in balance in its youth, will it remain so as it ages. This is a critical factor when assessing the age ability of a young wine and one often ignored by many critics and producers in their reviews and promotional notes.

The fruit forward, super-ripe, high alcohol, low acid and softly tannic wines so popular with many critics are actually destined for early enjoyment despite the contrary marketing and critical hype. Over time, these examples have proven themselves ill-suited for long term aging regardless of their high prices, aggressive claims and exalted ratings.

A wine’s structure is an extension of balance as they both rely on similar components expressing themselves in a slightly different manner. Acidity forms the backbone (or skeleton) of the wine’s structure. Tannin is the musculature that holds the skeleton together and creates shape in red wines; whereas acidity must play a dual role in this regard for whites. Alcohol is the connective tissue adding to the skeletal integrity. Fruit provides the overriding flesh to the finished wine. Looking at each factor individually, as well as interactively, furthers our focus on a wine’s texture, balance, structure that all contribute to its complexity.

With this simple explanation, it becomes quite apparent that without either of these contributing components, the balance and expression of the wine is perceived as “flabby” and unable to support itself as it “collapses” over the mid- to long-range of its life. And like balance, a wine lacking structure in its youth will not develop it over the aging process.

Complexity represents itself as the ultimate and combined expression of aromatics, flavor, texture, balance and structure from our first sniff on the nose to the last lingering impression on the finish. It is the principle arbiter of quality and the final determining factor of a wine’s true personality. And under its overriding umbrella, it embodies a "complete package" that inspires the consideration of where simple ends and complex begins.

Share your experiences with other readers by commenting on this article with an e-mail to me at allenbalik@savorlifethroughwine.com.

Allen Balik, a Napa resident, has been a wine collector, consultant, author, charity fundraiser and enthusiast for more than 40 years.