Here come the holidays

Cooler weather leads to heartier fare and the nature of holiday cheer lends itself to a broad selection of delightful wines with many unexpected discoveries. The very nature of our holiday celebrations differs from other events throughout the year as we tend more toward a range of foods served buffet or family style rather than several individually plated courses. And since we don’t know for sure what’s going to land on every plate, we don’t need to focus on the best pairing.

While not abandoning your favorite Cabernets, Chardonnays, Merlots or Zinfandels on these occasions, you can also explore a broader range of choices that complement the variety of tastes on everyone’s plate. My vinous keys to choosing wines that are harmonious with an eclectic combination of foods for the holiday season are bright acidity, lower levels of tannin and oak, fresh (but not overly dominant) fruit and a silky mouthfeel.

Most of the wines we enjoy during our holiday celebrations trace their ancestry to often remote Old World growing areas but are readily available in local markets with most at affordable prices. A selection of the same varieties is also grown and produced domestically under their varietal names or part of proprietary blends.

In our family, several holidays are also all-day or multi-day events with different dishes and wines offered throughout the day. Thanksgiving is a good example of the season, as football seems to dominate the day with deli meats, cheeses, chips and dips finding their way to the bar-top or kitchen island for a do-it-yourself grazing experience.

No proper wine pairings needed here, just an array of choices featuring some lighter whites, rosés (yes, rosé is not just for summer and with a bit less of a chill is perfectly fine year-round) and reds. Here, the choices are bountiful with intriguing varieties and blends guaranteed to add to the experience.

For the whites I suggest the brighter (higher acid) alternatives to cut through fats and balance the spices. Albariño (aka Alvarinho in Portugal), Soave Classico (the grape is Garganaga) dry Riesling and Assyrtiko from the windy shores of Santorini in Greece are easy fun choices and sure to add interest to the day. Dry rosés are plentiful and made in a variety of styles from countless growing areas of the world in a range of varietal labels and blends.

I particularly enjoy rosés from the Provence region of southern France that exemplify a lighter style with a definite regional character. Somewhat bolder examples from Bandol and other areas are also good choices and complement winter’s heartier dishes.

The reds I look to are also higher in acid and lower in tannin than we normally see in our Cabernets and other more familiar choices. Village or Cru Beaujolais (lightly chilled), Côtes du Rhone, and Sangiovese (including Chianti) are all good choices as they artfully combine the characters of brightness, delicate fruit and a welcoming textural impression.

Thanksgiving dinner presents a tricky amalgamation of aromas, flavors and textures on every plate. The combinations are endless from the turkey (white or dark meat?), stuffing, gravy, cranberry sauce with a range of casseroles, breads and vegetables to a variety of desserts. Over the years I’ve followed the same logic with dinner wines as I did for the daytime football graze but with a bit more depth and often a sparkler to handle the transition.

Aromatic whites such as Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, dry or off-dry Gewürztraminer and Vouvray (Chenin Blanc) will appeal to most palates and form an eclectic pathway to a group of interesting reds. Examples such as Barbera, a lighter-styled Zinfandel or Petite Sirah are good choices as well as Malbec or a cool-climate Syrah.

Each family's history and customs greatly influence their Chanukah dinner, but in general ours is a much easier holiday meal with slow cooked chicken soup to start and then traditional brisket, potato latkes (often with sour cream and apple sauce), a modest vegetable dish and a variety of desserts.

Here you can rely on some of the more familiar choices of a Sauvignon Blanc or a lighter Chardonnay (watch out for oak) for the soup and then Merlot, Grenache and perhaps a Chinon (Cabernet Franc from France’s Loire Valley) to complement the various flavors and enhance the main course. Though Chanukah parties are not necessarily geared to elaborate pairings, wine can definitely complement the festivities as it has been an integral part of Jewish celebrations for thousands of years.

Christmas festivities take us back to an all-day affair with a more traditional plated or family-style dinner. During the day with so many treats on display, I like to stick with sparklers, dry rosés and simpler whites such as Pinot Grigio (aka Pinot Gris), Vinho Verde, Pinot Blanc or Torrontés for a special treat from below the equator (Argentina). A few tasty reds to consider are Mataro (aka Mourvèdre or Monastrell), Tempranillo or a lightly chilled Dolcetto along with so many of the newly discovered dry reds from Portugal.

Christmas ham at dinner is a bit tricky with its salty flavors, so I suggest two seemingly opposite choices of Chardonnay (with balanced oak and alcohol) or Aligoté (Burgundy’s second white grape) to tame the saltiness and Pinot Noir to accentuate the savory nature of the dish. Both will also complement many of the Christmas meal side dishes served.

For a change of pace from your normal go-to Chardonnay you may consider trying Chablis or multiple choices from the France’s Mâcon such as Pouilly-Fuissé. And for the Pinot you can also look to Oregon or New Zealand for a different stylistic impression.

New Years is definitely a multi-day event with football leading to New Year’s Eve celebrations (naturally calling for Champagne or other reputable sparklers) and all those bowl games on New Year’s Day lasting well into the evening concluding with a festive (depending on game results!) dinner. During both days in our house, there is a never ending stream of snacks, small bites, dips, cheeses and meats continually coming from the kitchen landing on the bar and tables around the den.

Rather than focus on any specific dishes, I just keep the wines coming. All the choices already mentioned for daytime enjoyment fit nicely. Adding to those try a Vermentino, Verdicchio or Picpoul Blanc for interesting whites. For some other easy to enjoy reds look to Carignan, Rosso di Montalcino, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and some time-honored blends from the Priorat region in the northeast of Spain to match the spirit of the game.

Whether your holiday celebrations are large or small, why not move beyond your comfort zone and the more traditional wines we tend to choose (often out of habit) in other times of the year?

I invite you to use the holidays (and a bit of searching where necessary) to explore these somewhat lesser known wines to heighten your celebrations. And who knows – some may become regulars on your table throughout the year. Happy Holidays and enjoy the adventure!