Savoring Sauvignon with Tom Gamble

Last month I was fortunate to attend an extremely educational seminar and tasting centered on Sauvignon Blanc and hosted by Tom Gamble – 3rd Generation farmer/proprietor of Gamble Family Vineyards – whose family has been farming in the Napa Valley since 1916. The event was arranged by Kiernan Spencer and Katherine Jarvis of Jarvis Communications and held at Tom’s Yountville vineyard where he has 20 planted acres of Sauvignon Blanc.

A bit of history here. Sauvignon Blanc (aka its “nickname” Sauvignon) originated in the Loire Valley in the early 16th Century, but through state-of-the-art genetic research only one-half of its parentage (Savagnin from France’s Jura region) is known. It has also been traced genetically as the sibling of many European white varieties such as Grüner Veltner, Verdelho, Chenin Blanc and several others.

From the Loire, the grape migrated to Bordeaux where, in the mid-18th Century, it is thought to have spontaneously crossed with Cabernet Franc in the creation of Cabernet Sauvignon. This discovery by U.C. Davis Professor Emerita and retired Napa vintner Carole Meredith contradicted the widely accepted notion that a white grape could not parent a red variety, thus opening a broader field of genetic research.

Worldwide, Sauvignon Blanc is the tenth most widely planted wine grape with 300,000 acres and the second most planted white variety in California. Its domestic plantings date back to 1882 and Charles Wetmore’s Livermore Valley Cresta Blanca Vineyard. When Wetmore decided to plant the variety, he went to its native France and is said to have brought back cuttings from Bordeaux’s legendary Château d’Yquem of Sauternes.

Gamble Family Vineyards’ 20 acres are comprised of six Sauvignon Blanc clones (Musque, Preston, 530, 14, 22 and 316) along with three others recently planted but not yet in production. Fruit from the vineyard is used for Tom’s two Sauvignon bottlings and also sold to 13 other prestigious producers. Several of those winemakers and vintners joined in the tasting to share their experiences with Gamble Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc while also leading the discussion about their individual wines.

The seminar began on the patio overlooking the vineyard with a refreshing glass of rosé as Tom discussed the family’s farming background and details on his vineyard holdings covering four Napa Valley AVAs – Oakville, Yountville, Mt. Veeder and Rutherford. In all Gamble Family Vineyards produces 3,500 cases under their brand, farms 175 planted acres across the four AVAs and sells roughly 98 percent of its fruit.

Until Tom visited France in the early 1980s, he disparaged most Napa Valley Sauvignon Blancs with their more insipid flavor profiles and inconsistent stylistic message. However, during that fateful visit he discovered what the grape is capable of expressing while tasting examples from the Loire Valley and Bordeaux.

“It took my French adventure to appreciate the often fog enshrouded low lying lands bounded by Napa River and Conn Creek near my family’s farm. The site reminded me of Bordeaux’s region between its great rivers the Dordogne and Garonne. So, when the time came in 1998 for my friends to sell their property, I was able to pursue my vision of establishing Sauvignon Blanc to the stature it has in Bordeaux as its great white wine.”

After our informal introduction, we ventured inside to sample berries from clusters of the various clones, some picked a week or so before while others were picked that day. With this exercise conducted by Tom, we experienced first-hand not only the different personalities of the clones but also the effect of hang-time on the vine. What a difference a week or so can make as harvest nears!

We then moved to the tasting table where we sampled six different Sauvignons (from five producers) all emanating from Gamble Vineyards with the winemakers/vintners for each. This selection comprised an overview of different clones, blends and vintages. A thorough tasting and discussion of each wine concluded with a delectable “box” lunch from Yountville’s Bouchon Bakery to accent Sauvignon Blanc’s French roots.

The tasting began with Winemaker Tony Biagi introducing his 2021 Hourglass Estate Sauvignon Blanc that included 9 percent Semillon (in the Bordelais fashion) from a very small Gamble Vineyard block. The nose was explosive with notes of melon and pitted fruit followed by a mineral rich palate accented by apple and lemongrass with a long, layered finish mirroring the palate expression.

We then sampled Vintner Dean Gray’s 2022 Riverain Sauvignon Blanc Riverbound Vineyard (the labeled vineyard designation for all Gamble Vineyard Sauvignons other than those of Gambel Family Vineyards). The nose was redolent with bright citrus accents that were reflected on the palate accompanied by bold notes of apple and melon. A combination of power and elegance with charming textural appeal.

Noted Winemaker Julien Fayard introduced his 2022 Nicholson Jones Sauvignon Blanc that is 100 percent Sauvignon Blanc, 100 percent from Gamble Ranch and 100 percent Clone 22. Again, a combination of power and grace with tropical and citrus aromatics, leading to a rich and balanced palate and finish focused on extended impressions of citrus and bright acidity.

Tom and Winemaker Philippe Melka then introduced their multi-clonal blend of 2022 Gamble Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. Here, Sauvignon Musque’s textbook tropical notes of mango, papaya and white orchid led in the nose and palate that balanced the firm citrus driven acidity of the Preston clone. A rich, bold and balanced wine displaying the integral role of several clones coming together in creating a total expression greater than the sum of its parts. As Tom reflected, “Our style has not changed over the years, but continues to evolve as we learn more about Sauvignon Blanc, the character of its clones and their individual expressions.”

Tom and Philippe together presented the 2022 Realm “The Bard Riverbound White Wine,” a blend of the Prestion (vibrant acidity and structure) and Musque (tropical notes and textural influences) clones. The clonal blend again stressed the lively character of Preston with the mouthwatering tropical nature of Musque to yield a rich nose, palate and finish accenting textbook balance and texture.

Concluding our experience was a tasting of 2018 Gamble Heart Block, sourced from a unique vineyard block in the center of the Gamble Vineyard and also a blend of Preston and Musque clones. This is the ultimate expression of the vineyard and is Gamble’s Sauvignon Blanc flagship bottling. It was made by Founding Winemaker Jim Close with then Assistant Winemaker (and now Winemaker) Jaime Modena. A true expression of balance, power and elegance continuing to develop with a few years in bottle.

While each of the wines tasted expressed the individual personality of the winemaker, clonal blend, barrel/tank regimen, harvest timing and other personal decisions, the core Gamble Vineyard character was reflected in each sample and recognized as the “common denominator” throughout.

Kudos to Tom Gamble for his stewardship of the vineyard and to the winemakers in respecting its inherent influence. Terroir’s true expression!