Remembering my friend Mike Grgich

Last week the wine community lost a beloved icon and I lost a dear friend of 44 years. Miljenko “Mike” Grgich passed away peacefully at his Calistoga (Napa Valley) home surrounded by family on December 13. He will be missed by all who knew him over his 100 years and by countless others who were merely familiar with his accomplishments – both professional and personal.

My friendship with Mike began in spring 1979 during my first visit to Napa Valley. On the first day of our tasting adventure wine savvy collectors and good friends Suzie and Paul Frank treated us to an extraordinary vinous experience by sharing a bottle of the legendary 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay (winner of "Best White Wine" against the standard bearers of Burgundy at the infamous Judgment of Paris in 1976) over lunch on an island at Chateau Montelena. Paul piqued my interest as he recounted the illustrious story of the wine and winemaker – Mike Grgich.

The next day we were having lunch at Domaine Chandon when Paul noted a new wine on the list – 1977 Grgich Hills Chardonnay – that he had not yet tried but was the winemaker’s newest venture. We ordered the wine and were immediately drawn in by its grace and elegance. Since we were close to this new Rutherford-based winery, we decided to drive by and perhaps have the chance to meet Mike.

We did indeed meet Mike who was so humble and gracious while teaching me the significance of “letting the wine speak for itself.” That was the beginning of our 44-year friendship and the first of many great occasions I've shared with Mike personally and by opening countless bottles of Grgich Hills wines to enjoy with friends.

To commemorate Mike’s 100th birthday earlier this year, his daughter Violet (President and CEO) and nephew Ivo Jeramaz (Winemaker/V.P. of Vineyards and Production), along with their Grgich Hills Estate team planned several intimate celebratory events in late spring. Unfortunately, I was away for each of these events and unable to personally wish Mike a happy 100th.

As the harvest of 2023 approached, Violet and Ivo hosted their annual Blessing of the Grapes celebration that also honored Mike’s 97th (that’s right 97th!) harvest that I again had to miss for the first time since moving to Napa in 2001.

Determined to mark Mike’s birthday, I called Violet for some ideas on the best way to celebrate my friendship with Mike, his 100th birthday and 97th harvest. I was met with a welcome response as Violet arranged a private meeting in the Ranch House on the winery campus with just Mike, Violet, Ivo, Mike’s longtime friend and assistant Maria Luisa Moreno Reyes. We spent a couple hours together sipping wine and reliving stories.

What a special time it was as I connected with my friend in his home surroundings sharing some meaningful and delicious wines and plenty of time for personal reminiscences spanning our years of friendship. On entering the Ranch House, I was greeted by a beautiful table set with two very special wines – 2019 Grgich Hills Estate 100th Birthday Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville Old Vine and 2020 Grgich Hills Estate 100th Birthday Chardonnay Paris Tasting Commemorative – and plates of Mike’s favorite cheeses, salamis, crackers and hummus.

Anticipating a memorable visit, I pulled a very special bottle from our cellar to share with him in hopes of evoking some great recollections. In 1986, my wife Barbara and I visited Mike in his Yountville Victorian home. As we left the house, Mike inscribed and signed a bottle of his 1985 Grgich Hills Johannisberg Riesling Late Harvest for Barbara that has been resting comfortably in our cellar ever since.

Could there have been a better wine to share with Mike celebrating his 100th?

Well, to everyone’s surprise and joy the wine went far beyond what we expected as Mike relished the aromatics, flavors and memories the bottle evoked. And Maria’s reaction was also one of unparalleled joy and surprise. Violet and I watched their delight unfold and the emotions they displayed.

Mike sniffed the wine deeply as his eyes lit up in happiness while the aromatics brought a smile to his face unlocking long-forgotten memories of the wine. After his first sip, his smiled broadened and he broke into a Croatian song: “Vuzgi Vuzgi – "No one has it better than us, if only it were like this every day." He repeated the song several times before simply commenting, “It’s good to be a winemaker and enjoy wine like this.”

Both Violet and I were amazed and elated with Mike’s reaction to the wine and our special celebration. But Maria’s reaction went far beyond as she repeatedly reminded Mike that he made this wine and each reminder was met with a nod and broad grin.

Ivo observed the wine as retaining its youthful expression even after 38 years, “This wine is still young and alive with good acidity and perfect balance that is a tribute to Mike’s talents.” He then acknowledged Mike’s natural link to his history and dedication to wine by saying, “Throughout his winemaking career, Mike has always had his ear to the ground and looks to the soils for their influence in fine wine production. Terroir is his guiding light and its expression in the glass is his goal.”

Ivo also presented me with a bottle each of the 100th Birthday wines which Mike was kind enough to sign carrying on a tradition and enhancing the memories of our 44-years long friendship. Wine is a living thing and has always been a treasured vehicle in bringing people together as it did on that beautiful fall afternoon.

This final memory of my time with Mike will live in my heart forever.