Revisiting today’s wine lists

By Allen R. Balik

After more than two years, we’re finally able to return to some of our favorite activities and dining out for a special evening is certainly one I look forward to resuming. Unfortunately for some, getting reacquainted with the wine list is intimidating and may create a bit of discomfort for the host. But why?

We’ve all experienced it – perhaps some more than others. You planned a special night out with family and friends. At one time you eagerly awaited the “other worldly” experience of dining in a majestic restaurant. On entering this palace of gastronomy, you may have been overwhelmed by its beauty and the regal nature of the entire scene. When comfortably seated, the menus were delivered by handsomely attired servers.

Then the moment of truth. The arrival of the wine list! Were you excited and intrigued or intimidated by its sheer size and complexity? Did you think, “If I take the time to read this whole thing I won’t be able to enjoy the company or the meal?” Well, for most, those days are long gone but a sense of intimidation by the wine list may linger on.

Thankfully, in today’s world of computers and printers, the sight of the leather bound and beautifully calligraphied tome is more or less a thing of the past. But the wine list can be intimidating to many regardless if it was printed that day – to better ensure the availability of your selection – or still penned by hand. The construction of the list has much to do with your comfort level and ease in navigating through its content.

Most lists are first arranged by wine type – sparkling, rosé, white, red and dessert – and that’s easy enough to understand. However, how the wines are listed under these general categories may be challenging. Is it by variety (Cabernets, Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays…), region (Napa, Bordeaux, Rioja…), country (U.S., France, Spain…) or even price?

Wine lists are generally written to help the customer. Often, more detail serves to simplify it, but to some the additional information only adds to the confusion. And what about those names you can’t pronounce?

To deconstruct and simplify any wine list you encounter, simply narrow your selection process as you would with the menu or other “shopping” experiences. If you know you want fish, you don’t have to spend time perusing the beef dishes. If you walk into a department store to buy a sweater, you don’t have to look at the fragrance, shoe and shirt displays.

By the same token if you want a white wine, don’t worry about the daunting list of reds and others. If Cabernet Sauvignon is your choice, don’t worry about the Pinot Noirs and Zinfandels. And if you can’t pronounce it ask the sommelier for help. Is it getting any easier?

Many years ago I was in Tokyo on a business trip. We were having dinner at a heralded new restaurant featuring “Franco/Japanese” cuisine as it was then all the rage in Japan. I was handed the wine list by our host and asked to select a wine. My eyes widened and began to drift to the right side (price column) of the page. It was then our host extended his hand to cover the prices and said with a smile, “just concentrate on the left side.”

I frequently recall this exchange as price is often a determining factor in wine selection. So here’s another way to better focus your exploration of the list. If your limit is $70, don’t worry about those wines that are more expensive. Nowhere is it said that a great wine list must be intimidating or a great wine expensive.

Now that you’ve narrowed your choices and feel more comfortable with a wine list, remember that experimentation is also fun. Try something new from time to time just to keep it interesting. Wine is meant to enhance, not complicate, the meal. So, for advice, don’t be bashful as the sommelier can be your friend.