Something different for fall

By Allen R. Balik

Summer is always an exciting time as we have the opportunity to enjoy so many wines – red, white and pink – that just seem to bring out the best from long hot days and cool evenings. Yet, over the years I’ve gained a strong appreciation for fall as our tastes and climatic conditions transition to the cold and (we hope) rainy winter months, mirrored by the vineyards’ dramatic change of colors.

During autumn, I find myself continuing to enjoy many of my summer discoveries while recalibrating the serving temperatures and culinary pairings to better suit cooler temperatures and shorter days. Try serving those crisp whites and zesty rosés (that were chilled to the max to enhance acidity and brightness in summer) a bit closer to cellar temperature (55 to 60 degrees). With this small change, you’ll begin to appreciate a broader palate impression amplifying the fruit, texture and balance for the season’s more savory cuisine.

The well chilled Riesling, Albariño Soave Classico or Clairette Blanche that paired so well with a simple late afternoon cheese and fruit plate will demonstrate a far more complex flavor profile when served with pasta alla oglio or pan-roasted branzino as the main course. While the more adventurous may try a lightly chilled dry rosé with poached or grilled salmon.

As the temperatures dip, we can also expand our selection of whites to some that were not as popular during the warmer more casual dining of summer. Opulent Chardonnays (the best are balanced without oak and/or alcohol dominance), Grüner Veltliner or Arneis along with richer blends typical of Bordeaux (Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon) or the Rhone (Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, Grenache Blanc, etc.) will make far more frequent appearances on the dining room table.

Selections such as these are natural pairings with firmer fish (e.g. shark, mahi-mahi, albacore, yellowtail), grilled pork, roasted veal, a variety of chicken preparations and a broad range of game birds.

The chilled reds of Beaujolais (Cru and Villages), Valpolicella and Dolcetto were delightful accompaniments to our summer dishes, and (as with those bright whites) can still be enjoyed closer to cellar temperature with hors d’oeuvres and a lighter first course. The season also opens the door to bolder and more complex reds that are the preferred choices for savory cuts of beef and hearty stews along with more complex pork and veal preparations.

In addition to our Napa standby of Cabernet Sauvignon and its blends, I also welcome Cabernet Franc, Malbec (some great ones are now coming out of Napa Valley), Merlot and Sagrantino along with numerous choices from Tuscany, the Rhone and Spain. Pinot Noir is seen by many as a transitional favorite whether between courses year round or on its own, deftly bridging the gap from lighter to bolder reds.

And let’s not forget about Zinfandel and domestic versions of Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Grenache and Syrah (to name just a few) that pair beautifully with a variety of grilled, baked and fried meats and fowl. The choices here are endless given the wide selection now available from virtually every prestigious winegrowing area of the West Coast.

The rich and velvety sweet wines of Germany, Sauternes, Austria and Alsace are a delight with warm stone fruit cobblers and a selection of hearty cheeses such as Gorgonzola, Roquefort and Cambozola along with a wedge of Brie or Camembert with a drizzle of truffled honey.

Transitioning from summer also adds the opportunity to enjoy Port’s surprising versatility for welcome additions either as an aperitif, with dessert or after the meal. Both Ruby and White Ports are lighter and will add a little warmth to the reception as your guests gather for dinner. For a chocolate based desert, 10-Year Tawnys are a delightful choice. And after the meal, Vintage Port, older Tawnys or aged Colheitas are sublime with walnuts and a mature Stilton.

Perhaps the highlight of fall dining is the traditional Thanksgiving dinner and all its surrounding festive events. Precise wine pairing is impossible given the disproportionate variety of flavors, aromas and textures all finding their way to the dinner plate. This is our family’s most treasured holiday with a history of celebration and gathering with friends that has transitioned many decades.

Since the Thanksgiving dinner is always my greatest wine pairing challenge, I long ago decided to just relax and make it fun by not focusing on the “perfect” pairing. Over the years, I’ve chosen to offer a selection of great and versatile wines for all to enjoy. To make it easy and comfortable for everyone, I set the open bottles on the bar and let everyone make their choices throughout the late afternoon and evening.

However, the selection is anything but random. I am conscious of the vast variety of flavors, textures and aromas emanating from the many culinary treasures we savor. I shy away from the more extracted, higher alcohol and overly tannic wines – especially those with overpowering oak – that will fight the variety of tastes on display. I look for wines of character with higher acidity possessing intriguing bouquets and flavors that are more compatible with the traditional Thanksgiving fare.

Aromatic whites fill the bill for the opening reception and at the dinner table as well. Some examples such as Moscato, Gewürztraminer (a natural pairing with turkey), Torrontés, dry Riesling, Roussanne and Greco di Tufo are but a few. For something a bit less aromatic you can try a bone-dry and steely Sauvignon Blanc, Verdelho, Chenin Blanc, Pecorino or an un-oaked Chardonnay. And don’t forget a dry rosé – one of the wine world’s most versatile wines and a delicious match to the roasted “bird.”

For reds, a lighter Zinfandel, Pinot Noir or Chianti Classico are great choices but no need to stop there. Be sure to watch out for those wines exhibiting high tannins (Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, etc.) and look for those with higher acidity (Chianti Classico, Cru Beaujolais, Carignan, Montepulciano, etc.).

Sparkling wines offer good acidity, intriguing flavors and the joy of bubbles from hors d’oeuvres through the meal, and those on the sweeter side are also a welcome treat for dessert. Sweet desert-styled wines (White Port, Sauternes, late-harvest Rieslings and other varieties, etc.) are a natural with pumpkin pie and a multitude of other seasonal dessert selections.

Summer is past and winter has yet to arrive, but the exhilaration of fall’s transitional role is something we can all enjoy with a wide seasonal selection of culinary treats and enchanting wines to please the palate.