Getting to Know the Two “Masters”

By: Allen R. Balik

Throughout the world of wine, there are two coveted certifications held by very few individuals and both serve to define our dining and cellaring experiences.  The Court of Master Sommeliers (CMS) has only 269 members worldwide of which 172 reside here in the U.S.  The Institute of Masters of Wine (IMW) boasts 396 certified members from 30 countries and this year admitted just seven new MWs to their ranks. Both originated and remain headquartered in the U.K.

Unfortunately, the two titles of MS and MW are often misunderstood and incorrectly used interchangeably by many outside the industry.  Master Sommeliers excel in transmitting in-depth knowledge and expert wine service in the multi-faceted hospitality industry.  Masters of Wine are typically those with experience, exposure and educational expertise in the broader aspects of the entire industry from vineyard to table.

Neither is considered superior to the other and both claim an avid membership of dedicated professionals that have devoted thousands of hours and great financial commitment in their study and preparation for the rigid three part exams and tastings required by both societies.  One may look at the differentiation between the two as being similar to an individual’s choice of whether to pursue an MD or a Ph.D in physiology.  Both deal with the body, but one is principally patient driven while the other leans more to a broader scientific/academic role.

The MS entrance exam is conducted orally with the first part on theory.  This section entails the world of wine, beverage, and the sommelier’s responsibilities by covering a wide variety of subjects including the world’s grape varieties and growing regions as well as broad range of other topics that form the basis of providing an excellent wine selection and dining experience.

The next section is the blind tasting of  six wines where the variety (or varieties), appellation and vintage must be properly identified.  The third section is dedicated to proper restaurant beverage service and done in a real-life table presentation with CMS proctors critiquing as the dinner guests.

The MW exam is also three parts presented in written formats with each focusing on the global reach of wine.  The first part also is based on theory, yet the topics covered, and the questions posed, exhibit a broader and more academic approach covering everything from viticulture to bottling as well as the business of wine and current topics.

The practical (tasting) portion consists of three 12-wine blind tasting sessions (red, white and “anything goes”) to determine variety, origin, winemaking, quality and style.  After receiving passing marks on the first two, the final section is a research paper of 6,000 to 10,000 words based on the candidate’s topic of choice.

I’ve been fortunate to know several outstanding and authoritative men and women who boast the title of either MS or MW.  Since I wanted to delve a bit deeper into the motivation for seeking a desired discipline and how the certification has affected their career paths, I contacted a few MS and MW friends I’ve known and respected for years.

I first met Peter Marks MW when he was Senior VP of Wine at Copia in its early days.  He then moved on to Constellation Brands where he served as VP of Education for 11 years and is now Partner and VP of Education at the Napa Valley Wine Academy.  Peter enrolled in the IMW’s first U.S. education seminar on a whim in 1993 and was (to his surprise) accepted.  He was instantly “hooked” on the program and a career in wine education.

He earned his MW in 1995 as only the tenth American to earn the title and also the first American to win the annual Madame Bollinger Foundation Award for the highest blind tasting score. Since 2005 Peter has been on the IMW Education Committee and now serves as the Chairman of the MW Practical Exam. 

Peter sees the valuable attributes all MWs must possess as, “Having a worldwide perspective on all facets of wine… and being able to communicate clearly and effectively.”  In his words, “The purpose of the IMW is to promote excellence, interaction and learning across all sectors of the global wine community.” 

I have known Kevin Vogt MS both professionally and personally for more than ten years and am always amazed by his far-reaching knowledge of wine, along with his impeccable palate and ability to conceive enchanting pairings with a wide array of culinary delights.  When we first met, Kevin was Wine Director for Emeril Lagasse’s Restaurant Group and Head Sommelier at their Delmonico Steakhouse in the Venetian Las Vegas. 

In 2016 Kevin switched hats from his notable restaurant career to retail as co-proprietor of Wine Country Connection in Yountville.  On a trip to France in 1995, Kevin was “shamed” by friends into embarking on the MS program and began his studies while flying home.  He passed the Certificate Sommelier exam as number one of 82 candidates and two months later passed the Advanced Sommelier exam.  Then, in 1999 he became the 38th American Sommelier to earn an MS and only the 88th worldwide.

Kevin sums up the MS program as, “Really a prep course for being on the floor of a restaurant and it pushed me to learn every aspect of wine as it related to that part of business.”  Now he has expanded this admirable service to the retail sector as well. Kevin has dedicated his entire career to living the CMS Vision Statement: “The Court of Master Sommeliers sets the global standard of excellence for beverage service within the hospitality industry with integrity, exemplary knowledge and humility.”

Vanessa Conlin MW comes from a family dedicated to classical music and opera.  After earning a degree in vocal performance from the Manhattan School of Music and then a Masters of Music from Boston University, she began her professional life in the early 2000s as an opera singer in New York where she performed in Baz Luhrmann’s Tony nominated production of “La Bohème.”

While in New York Vanessa developed a taste for wine and began taking a series courses that lead to her earning the WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust) diploma.  Sometime later, she wanted to get back to studying wine and reaching for a higher goal.  So, armed with the requisite MW recommendation (from Peter Marks) she entered the IMW program and was one of the seven 2020 international inductees. 

Vanessa has worked as director of sales and marketing for several prestigious Napa Valley wineries as well as similar executive positions in the New York trade.  Today, she is the Head of Wine for Wine Access – a national direct-to-consumer e-commerce wine retailer.  Aside from the obvious industry recognition of the MW certification, Vanessa views her personal benefits as having met lifelong friends through the program because, “You are only competing against yourself during the exams, so [through intimate study groups] the program fosters a very strong sense of community.”

Everyone agreed that while their personal desires and career paths were crucial elements in their decisions to pursue either the MS or MW certification, both are valued within the industry and both consistently serve it in complementary ways.