Savoring a Bit of Vinous History
By: Allen R. Balik
Estimates indicate that 90 percent or more of all wine purchased in the U.S. is consumed within 24 hours and the vast majority of the remaining 10 percent does not see its second month. Consequently, only a small fraction of wine is cellared and aged by relatively few collectors. But the reward of that cellaring can be a warm welcome message to those who enjoy and appreciate the character of a properly aged wine.
Since the new year began, I’ve had several opportunities to pull and enjoy some of the oldies in our cellar and I thought I’d share a few of these experiences with you. Enjoying the secondary and tertiary aromatics and flavors of older wines may be an acquired taste, but definitely one worth exploring.
1983 Château Margaux – Truly one of the great wines of this historic château and considered one of the leading wines of a rather mixed vintage in Bordeaux outside of the Margaux Appellation. Still rich and lovely with a typical slight browning at the rim. The nose exhibited an earthy accent along with added notes of tobacco and cedar combined with ripe black cherry carrying on to the palate.
The top wines of Bordeaux are noted for their slow methodical maturation to reach a peak of drinking pleasure, typically holding at that level for quite some time. This was the case with the 1983 Margaux which is at its peak now with a very fresh and lively finish portending more years of pleasure ahead.
1990 Château Beaucastel – One of the great estates of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and known for its legendary wines ranking with the world’s finest. The wines of Beaucastel are well known for their ability to age while gaining added complexity with time in the bottle.
The primary fruits of its youth on the nose and palate have morphed into interwoven layers of game meats, dried cherries and leather that demonstrated the value of aging something special. And what a treat it was when dining with old friends in Los Angeles and perfectly paired with a delectable garganelli pasta complemented by a rich lamb ragu.
1988 Spottswoode Caberenet Sauvignon in Magnum – Opening this wine was a very educational, surprising and unusual experience. I had intended to pour it for a special dinner with friends as I had fond memories from its early days. Contrary to critical opinion then reflecting negatively on the vintage, I always found Spottwoode’s 1988 Cabernet to be a well-balanced and intriguing wine. Since I had not had the wine in years, I thought I’d try it via a Coravin sampling before opening the magnum.
While the wine was restrained it also possessed structure and character I felt would develop in the glass. However, the night before our dinner, I popped the cork and checked it again. It seemed a little tired so I replaced the cork and held it in the cellar.
Out of curiosity a week or so later, I pulled the cork and tried it again. To my amazement, the wine came alive in the glass and I enjoyed it over the next several days as it continued to develop and deliver its welcome surprise. Wine is a living thing and this magnum of Spottswoode Cabernet was proof positive that living things can go through some remarkable changes during their life’s various stages.
2005 Carver Sutro Petite Sirah Palisades Vineyard in Magnum – Anne Carver and Denis Sutro were committed growers and vintners who specialized in this often overlooked and under estimated grape until they recently sold their estate property in Calistoga. Petite Sirah is best known for its deeply hued color, lush fruit-forward character on the nose and palate along with bracing tannins and rustic finish.
But this example fought that stereotype, delivering a balanced experience with elegance and style. The red berries on the palate were accompanied by finely structured tannins, underlying acidity and an elegant mouthfeel. A perfect match to a grilled Sonoma duck breast with broccolini, cipollini onions and duck jus.
2001 Château Rieussec – A jewel of Sauternes and the perfect pairing to an enticing dessert of wild-berry compote with a bread apple tart accented by a delectable Gorgonzola Dolce. A spectacular wine from a treasured vintage that speaks to the best of what the time-honored Bordeaux region of Sauternes is capable of producing at a moderate price.
Honeyed apple and pear are carried forward on the nose and palate while firm acidity balanced the botrytised notes and luscious sweetness so notably presented on the palate and long layered finish. While Rieussec often plays second fiddle to the more highly renowned (and far pricier) neighboring Chateau d’Yquem, its showing that night validated the property’s greatness, especially in a vaunted vintage.
1995 Pahlmeyer Red Table Wine – Jayson Pahlmeyer was never shy about producing wines of immense depth, concentration and backbone, but always under an umbrella of elegance and class. In their youth, Jayson’s wines were enjoyable with complementary levels of fruit, firm tannins and a backbone of acidity that indicated a great future ahead. And invariably, that future promise came alive with time in bottle.
This particular bottle exhibited a complete integration from nose through finish. The complex nose was reminiscent of dried fruits and leather with a welcome hint of cigar box scents. The palate was firm with a silky mouthfeel, brisk tannins and bright acidity leading to a multi-layered finish. The wine was spectacular on day one and even better the next day.
1998 and 2000 Napa Valley Reserve by Harlan Estate – A friend served both wines at his birthday celebration and each showed beautifully. The Napa Valley Reserve is an exclusive club that was the brain child of Bill Harlan (founder of Harlan Estate) where members can take an in-depth hands-on role in the growing and production of their wines or leave it all to famed Harlan winemaker Bob Levy.
Both 1998 and 2000 were challenging vintages in Napa Valley and were largely written off by the critics and shunned by the trade. These two wines at 22 and 20 years of age proved them wrong. While the 1998 showed a bit more complexity and structure, the 2000 was modest on the nose yet broader on the palate.
Neither one disappointed in any way with each showing its individual character. I loved this comparison as it demonstrated that fine wine is what’s in the glass and not necessarily in a critical review reflecting on just a taster’s moment in time long before a wine has had a chance to grow into its own.
Collecting fine wine is more than one’s ability to buy and store some treasured bottles. It also encompasses a sense of patience and a great passion for sharing these prized bottles with friends and family as they proceed along their life’s cycle. Now, I’m eagerly looking forward to more discoveries as the year progresses.